JBP67BD1WH General Electric Range - Instructions

Ordered the part on Friday, got it on Saturday, very impressive. Be sure to unplug the range or disconnect the power at the breaker box before any repairs are started.

The lower (Bake) element is held in by 2 screws. Remove them and gently pull out the element to remove the power wires connected to the element. These wires are very short and there is not much room in which to work. After having removed the wire connectors one slipped from my fingers and went back in the small opening in the back of the oven where the element is inserted. It took some time to fish out the wire. Not wanting to slide out the range I used some surgical forcepts I happen to have grab the wire ( handy to clip wires or compontents in place for some delicate repairs). Its all blind and the opening is very small plus the insulation must be pushed back to gain access. Anyway I managed to grab the wire, attached both wires to the element, replaced the plate and screws holding the element in place, all finished. Worked great. Other ranges I have owned provided a socket to plug in the element, I guess the bottom line gets in the way of quality.. Being 60 years old the worst part of this job is the getting down on my knees to do the work and getting back up again.

Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.

This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:

1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.

2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.

2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.

3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.

4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.

5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.

7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.

8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.

9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.

10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.

11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.

12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).

13. Turn on the breaker and test again.

Thats it, works great now. Good Luck

Cut the Power! pull out stove remove the 4 screws in the back, disconnect the two wires from the element.Open oven door, remove racks and remove 2 screws holding the element in place. Replace element and the 2 retaining screws, replace racks.On the back of the oven connect the two wires and replace cover. Slide back in place and turn on the power. Done =)

repair took about 30minutes total tiem..first turn off power to stove..then open oven removed racks..used nut drive to loosen top two screw hold element..then remove screw hold temp sensor element...then removed two screws holding broiler element...then removed the top screw ...then pulled element out about 7 inches to expose wire connection..held on with spade lugs.. pulled wires off...element now free to remove ...placed spade lug on new element...put element in pace with top two screws..loosely...then did rear screw that held temp element and broiler element...then tighten all screws ..turned on power..did 15 sec test to make sure wired properly..then 5 minutes to operating temperature... job done...hardest part was crazwling in and out the stove...old bones..

Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!

First, we turned off the electricity for the whole house, since we didn't want to pull the unit away from the wall and possibly damage our new floors. We then used a socket wrench to remove the 2 nuts holding in the broken element. After that, we pulled out the old element, and this is where the difficulty came into play. The wires for the element stayed inside the back of the oven, and nothing we did could make them come out. We tried for a long time to get the wires to come back out into the oven, but our fingers were not long enough, and nothing we inserted into the space helped the situation.

Since we had turned the electricity off and still were reluctant to move the oven ourselves, we actually decided to call in a repair person (cost: $90). What he did, though was really simple:

He pulled the oven out from the wall. Used a screwdriver to open the back panel of the oven and was able to pull out the wires. Then, he inserted the new element, hooked it up to the wires, and closed back up the back panel. Then, he moved the oven back into place.

The repair person did this in all of 5 minutes, so if my husband and I had thought about the back panel, we would have easily done it ourselves.

My husband had turned the oven on to cook something and didn't know that I have a plastic tray in there. Well, needless to say I needed to get some new oven racks. I tried to get them through the manufacturer (GE). They were 68$ each. I thought that was a bit steep, so I looked online. I decided to order through PartsSelect. Well...they can 2 days later (the week before Christmas!!)and were a PERFECT fit.
Between the price, shipping speed and quality I will
definitely buy from again and recommend this site to everyone I know!!!!

Oh yeah, I work for Sears too. we have access to all sorts of parts....this site is the BEST for prices and delivery speed!!!!

Open lid,un screw coil,pop in new coil snap holders in place,then cook a steak

Very easy repair. The gasket ends are stuffed into slots right below the oven window and the gasket is held in with small wire clips that pop into holes in the door. Just pull the old gasket off, no tools. Install the gasket starting by stuffing one end into the slot mentioned above until the first clip lines up with the first small hole. Then insert each successive clip into the corresponding holes. Then use a slot screwdriver to stuff the other end of the gasket into the second slot. No sweat.

Unplugged appliance and removed 5 screws on back of stove/oven and removed plate. Disconnected the sensor and unscrewed it on the inside of the oven. Pulled the cord through and replaced with new sensor. Replaced all parts and plugged in the appliance and tested. Worked great.

The outer ring on the adjustable large haliant surface burner of our smooth top stove would not work. It would only work on the small (inner) size.

Found the part on this site, ordered, 3 days later, and it was fixing time.

2 screws removed to lift cooktop, 2 screws to remove old burner and disconnected 4 electric clips one at a time and placed them in same position on new burner. Replace the 4 screws and done.

VERY SIMPLE.

Unplugged range. Opened oven door and removed two screws from top of oven opening. Lifted oven top and propped up
with a 2 x 3.Unscrewed the two screws that were holding

The repair went very easy. The replacement part was designed differently than the original part. It installed on the rear of the drawer with a screw as the original snapped into the side. This was a bit confusing when researching and looking up the part online.

I started by lifting the front of the stove and slipping a towel under it so it would slide easier and not scratch the floor. The next step was to unplug the stove, after that, I removed the shelves. The next step was to remove the cover plate on the b ack to expose the connection. I removed the old element by pulling the to slide-on connections and the two mounting screws. At this point I took the time to clean the oven since the element was not in the way. To install the new element I did the opposite of th removal process.