EER3001D01SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Turned off circuit breaker to range.
Removed the 2 oven racks. Removed two screws in back of oven compartment. Pulled element forward and the terminal connections get exposed.
The right terminal clip disconnected by itself and the wire went back into the stove and could not be retrieved.
Removed range draw under the oven and pulled entire range out from wall about 4 feet.. Removed metal backing with a socket wrench and exposed the oven element wires and terminals.
Reinstalled new element and metal backing.
Since range was out from wall, cleaned and vacuumed before pushing stove back in place.
Since range draw was out re-leveled by setting adjustable feet.
Reinstalled drawer and racks.
Turned on circuit breaker.
Tested element by setting bake cycle on.

After the element cooled down, I pulled the racks out of the oven, turned off the oven at the breaker box, then, using a nut driver, loosened the screws that held the baking assembly in the back of the oven, and pulled the connecting wires off. I bent the wires to make sure they would stay out, because if they get back in the insulation, they are hard to find. I would recommend getting a pair of locking pliers and putting them on the ends of the wires just to keep them from getting back into the insulation. Then I attached the left connection wire and then the right one, pushed them back into the insulation, tightened the baking assembly to the back wall of the oven, turned it back on at the breaker box, then tested the oven to see if it heated up. It did. Total repair time 15 -20 minutes. Would have been less if I didn't have to chase one of the wires back in the insulation. Shamless plug for the company ...By paying extra for 2-day shipping to receive the part, I saved just over $20 from buying it at Sears, which would have had to order the part anyway.

Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.

removed the oven racks. used a 6.5 mm socket to take out two bolts. pulled out old element and wires through insulation into oven. i used caution during this part i didn't want the wires to disconnect and fall into the oven. once the wires and element was pulled out approximately 3 inches. i used two magnet clips that hold papers onto the refrigerator and clipped both wires so they wouldn't go back into the stove. disconnected the element from the wires and connected the new element to the wires. pushed wires into the back of the oven and tightened the two 6.5 mm bolt. done in 10 minutes. turned oven on to 400 degrees and let same pre heat. a little smoke will come from the new element which is normal. works fine now.

repair took about 30minutes total tiem..first turn off power to stove..then open oven removed racks..used nut drive to loosen top two screw hold element..then remove screw hold temp sensor element...then removed two screws holding broiler element...then removed the top screw ...then pulled element out about 7 inches to expose wire connection..held on with spade lugs.. pulled wires off...element now free to remove ...placed spade lug on new element...put element in pace with top two screws..loosely...then did rear screw that held temp element and broiler element...then tighten all screws ..turned on power..did 15 sec test to make sure wired properly..then 5 minutes to operating temperature... job done...hardest part was crazwling in and out the stove...old bones..

Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!

1. Removed the oven door -- this is a little tricky -- you need to lift to small metal covers on the hinges, then pull the door up and out from the broil (half open position). Replace the door the same way. It is important to insert the hinges with the door in the "broil" position, and after verifying that the door is aligned and closes normally -- then lift hinge covers to lock in place.

2. After door is removed the glass assembly can be removed and replaced by unscrewing two long (2-3 inch long) screws at the top. And three hex head screws at the bottom of the door. Note -- there is no need to removed the six screws (3 either side) on th ebottom of the door -- because these only hold the hinges to the door. The other 5 screws that you do need to remove actually hold the two halves of the door together.

3. Replace glass assembly and reassemble.

It is not so hard but you need "star" screwdrivers for the long screws... (not philips -- but 6-pointed stars), and a socket wrench is useful for the bottom 3 hex head screws...

If I were to do again it would only take me 15 minutes.... but I messed up by removing the hinges unnecessarily so it took me an hour.

My husband had turned the oven on to cook something and didn't know that I have a plastic tray in there. Well, needless to say I needed to get some new oven racks. I tried to get them through the manufacturer (GE). They were 68$ each. I thought that was a bit steep, so I looked online. I decided to order through PartsSelect. Well...they can 2 days later (the week before Christmas!!)and were a PERFECT fit.
Between the price, shipping speed and quality I will
definitely buy from again and recommend this site to everyone I know!!!!

Oh yeah, I work for Sears too. we have access to all sorts of parts....this site is the BEST for prices and delivery speed!!!!

After I got the right part(I ordered the wrong one at first, my fault) it was simple to remove the old element, 2 screws and push on termilnals, and replace with perfectly fitting new part. Word of caution, turn off the breaker to stove. I found that the element line is hot even if the control is off!

Open lid,un screw coil,pop in new coil snap holders in place,then cook a steak

Very easy repair. The gasket ends are stuffed into slots right below the oven window and the gasket is held in with small wire clips that pop into holes in the door. Just pull the old gasket off, no tools. Install the gasket starting by stuffing one end into the slot mentioned above until the first clip lines up with the first small hole. Then insert each successive clip into the corresponding holes. Then use a slot screwdriver to stuff the other end of the gasket into the second slot. No sweat.

Unplugged appliance and removed 5 screws on back of stove/oven and removed plate. Disconnected the sensor and unscrewed it on the inside of the oven. Pulled the cord through and replaced with new sensor. Replaced all parts and plugged in the appliance and tested. Worked great.

Unplugged range. Opened oven door and removed two screws from top of oven opening. Lifted oven top and propped up
with a 2 x 3.Unscrewed the two screws that were holding

The repair went very easy. The replacement part was designed differently than the original part. It installed on the rear of the drawer with a screw as the original snapped into the side. This was a bit confusing when researching and looking up the part online.

Charles from Sharon MA 1/14/09 has a pretty good description of what needs to be done. My model must be a little different than Charles, so I'll just tell you about the differences.

The locks that hold the hinges in place on the oven had to be flipped DOWN not UP. They are small rectangular metal brackets with a little open "notch" on the top where you can stick a small screwdriver to pry them down.

I found that I DID have to remove the six small screws (three on each hinge) that hold the hinges in place as they also went through both the inner and outer door panels.

Note that the glass assembly has a vented frame. Note that there are vents on the TOP of the frame but not the bottom - i.e. heat rises. Take care not to put the glass assembly in upside down.