Models > JAP02SN1SS

JAP02SN1SS General Electric Range

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Diagrams for JAP02SN1SS

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Manuals & Guides for JAP02SN1SS

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Sold individually.
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This metallic clip is used to help support the broil element. Sold individually.
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This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
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$151.71
This sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
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This switch controls the small burner on a range/stove top.
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$11.59
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$12.51
This part is a replacement lens for your oven or range. The lens is red in color, and when the elements are turned on, the light behind the lens will turn on to inform the user that the element is, in...
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This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
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$13.53
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This switch controls the large burner on a range/stove top.
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$8.06
Size: 10-32 GXTT FLP .595 Sold individually.
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This part provides a way of connecting individual electrical wires and offers protection of the device from electrical surges (voltages and/or currents).
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Common Problems and Symptoms for JAP02SN1SS

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Oven not heating evenly
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Oven is too hot
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Door won’t close
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Customer:
James from Austin, TX
Parts Used:
WB21X5301
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
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Customer:
jonathan from willow springs, IL
Parts Used:
WB17T10011
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
terminal block melted
The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. U nscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient
53 of 67 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Michael from Lawrenceville, GA
Parts Used:
WB21X5301
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Oven would not heat to the correct temperature
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
37 of 60 people found this instruction helpful.
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