Models > EGR2001EN1SS

EGR2001EN1SS General Electric Range

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If the oven in your gas range is not heating, there may be an issue with your igniter. This part is used to light the oven burner by igniting the gas. If you notice that it is glowing, but there is st...
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This genuine OEM part is a top burner spark electrode, also known as a range surface burner igniter. This part is used to create a spark that lights the flame for the surface burner on your gas range....
No Longer Available
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
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This is a replacement drawer support for your oven. The drawer support provides stability to the drawer unit as it opens and closes. If your oven drawer is hanging or will not slide in or out efficien...
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Sold individually.
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Sold individually.
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Sold Individually.
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$11.59
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This burner cap sits on top of the burner base.
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This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
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This is a replacement cooktop mounting screw, used to secure the burner. If you are missing that screw on your range, this is the part to replace it. This screw is about a half an inch in length and i...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for EGR2001EN1SS

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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Element will not heat
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Oven not heating evenly
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Door won’t close
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Gas smell
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Touchpad does not respond
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Customer:
Sidney from Marysville, CA
Parts Used:
WB13K21
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
The igniter glowed, but never got hot enough to ignite the propane, so I did smell propane.
First, I removed the two screws that held the heat shield in place. Second, I removed the one screw that held a small wire covering. That covering kept the wires inside the back wall of the range. Third, I removed the two screws that held the Igniter Kit, and unplugged it from the back of the range. I then carefully put the new ignite r in, and reassembled everything in reverse order. It only took about 30 minutes to do the repair, and 30 minutes of cleaning and wiping of the broiler area. (It is amazing what you see when you take things apart). I should have been wiping things up over the past few months. Overall, a very easy repair. I ordered the part at 12:30 in the afternoon, and FedEx delivered it the next morning at 11:30, all for the regular shipping price of $6.95. VERY HAPPY.....
671 of 718 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
zack from corning, CA
Parts Used:
WB13K21
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
oven would not light or keep temp.
first I thought it was a faulty gas valve, so I pulled it out, started researching for a replacement part, found your site and started research. I discovered thhat the igniter was the culprit, that info. saved me about a week of time and a 100 bucks, so I installed the gas safety valve back in the oven, patience is the word for the day, you cross thread this and you are done! any way ordered ignighter and it shipped to my house in about 4 days, New York to Calif. had it installed in about 15 minutes fired off the oven and ...IT worked hurray...10-9-2010,
448 of 461 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Durwood from Suffield, CT
Parts Used:
WB13K21
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven wouldn't heat. This degraded over several weeks.
1. Pulled the 110V power plug. It was not necessary to turn off the gas; just be careful not to stretch or pinch the flexhose behind the stove.
2. Removed the oven door by opening a couple of inches then lifting upward.
3. Removed the warming drawer by pulling out to the stop, then pushing the small levers on the side of the t rack to release.
4. Removed two flathead screws at the back of the oven to free up the oven bottom panel.
5. Removed the bottom panel by lifting up the pack until the front edge clears the overhang.
6. Removed the two screws on the side that hold the igniter to the burner tube. Be sure not to let the screws drop into the gaps in the oven floor. Note the position of the bent tab with the holes to ease aligning the new part.
7. Reached through the warming drawer to release the plug by squeezing the tabs on the end.
8. Pulled the plug up through the gap in the oven floor (where the wires went through) and connected it to the other connector.
9. Ran the new wire down through the oven floor.
10. Aligned the new igniter and tightened them. Had trouble getting the screws started so I used a toothpick to align one hole while starting the other screw.
11. Replaced the oven bottom panel. It needed a little jockeying to get the screws and holes aligned.
12. Replaced the door.
13. Replaced the oven drawer.

This turned out to be a good time to clean all those dusty places that don't get cleaned that often.
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