JGBS07DEM1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Check the switch with an ohm meter, 0 resistance in the closed position = a bad switch. I went to the web site found the part. ordered it next day it shows up. Removed the pot grids and all control knobs for the burners and oven lifted the top of the stove up, and off. I removed face plate behind the control knobs 3 screws, I removed the 2 screws holding the oven switch. opened the oven and un cliped the thermostat wire from the back wall. Uncoiled new wire feed under the burner shield to the back of the unit and back down the old hole cliped in the new wire. put the 2 screws into the new switch and re-assembled the rest in the reverse order i took it off . all this while watching my 11 month old grandaughter.

Checked switch using test meter and found voltage going in but no voltage out when switch was turned on. Removed all burner knobs, raised top cover and disconnected two wires from thermostat switch. Removed the thermostat probe from oven interior by pushing it through hole in top. Removed two screws holding switch and pulled out entire assembly. Used a wire coat hanger pushed through hole for probe so I could see where to fish the probe into the oven. Hooked up electrical connections and tested. Everything worked well.
Received part from Partselect in one business day. Excellent service and response.

The repair was fairly easy, you take off all the burner knobs there are small screws on the face of the cover panel and a few on the bottom That come off the cover panel should come off after you remove the screws and the switch for the oven light the wires just clip on the switch there are two .the thermostat is held on by two small screws that are on the cover panel.you lift up the burner panel you have room to feed the thermostat wire in the stove,there is a small hole in the back were you feed the wire through then the metal part is held in place by two small clips that are in the oven on the back wall.I didnt have to trouble shoot becase I knew what part I needed because it was broken,It was a fairly easy repair hopefully this is helpful

Good Luck

Take the advice that it's the igniter. Even thought the igniter lights, it doesn't mean it passes the correct current to the valve. Too much or too little won't work. I'd suggest changing the igniter first. I used to be in the valve business, that kind of valve lasts millions of cycles. The igniters on the other hand break down after a5-10 years

I had to open the top of the gas range and remove the front panel where the knobs are. I was able to identify where the thermostat wire went.
I had a little trouble figuring out how to thread the thermostat wire into the back of the range but then I poked the old thermostat through the hole from the inside so I could tell where it went.
I just had to put all the screw back in and check it and it worked fine.

I found the best was to remove the oven door and the broiller drawer. Then I removed the panel that seperates the two areas. This gave me great access. Next I removed the shield (1 screw) and the burner (3 screws). Then the inlet pipe (don't forget to turn off the gas, as I did). Remove the valve (2 screws)...........Remove the mounting bracket from old valve and install it on the new one. Then it's just a matter of reversing the prior steps and your'e done!

My husband and I simply took the burner units out of the packing, took the old ones off, put the new ones in. The new units needed to be leveled, but the leveling nuts included fit perfectly, and the entire repair took less than 15 minutes.

My Hotpoint gas oven became extremely hot after using it . Only after unplugging the electrical cord, turned it off. Replacing the control valve (thermostat) solved the problem. The stove top had to be pried up with a flat screw driver then propped up. Prying off the oven control valve revealed two mounting screws (philips head). Next remove thermostat sensor bulb inside oven at back wall. Remove old thermostat control and bulb assembly. Installation is reverse order of disassembly.

I turned off the gas flow to the appliance, removed the old oriface spuds with the adjustable wrench, inserted the new oriface spuds and tightened them with the adjustable wrench. The double burner assembly just dropped on. They fit perfectly. I did not have to use the leveling nuts that were included with the burners. The old levelers were still in place and set perfectly for the new burners. Very easy repair, and the range works like a new one.

Removed the two screws put the heat shield off the old one onto the new one put new bottom in and tightened two screws. Done #38. 69 Cost of part with shipping cost included.

I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.

my husband who is very handy took it a part, replaced the glass and put it back together - he did remove the door from the oven first and put it on the counter to work on it.
I had the schematic picture of the door ready in case he needed it. He didn't really.

The R&R of the defective thermostat was at first look relatively simple. The job was made more complicated because in order to remove the old thermostat and then route the new thermostat across the top of the stove, under the burners, and down through a small hole into the oven space I had to remove the whole top of the stove. This process is not hard, just time consuming. Be very careful of razor sharp edges, they make you bleed. The final calibration of the oven is an easy adjustment in the oven knob. All in all it was an good experience.



Lyle Nelson

The toughest part of the repair was the preparation to remove the old burners. As a result of the burning there was a carbon residue on the burners, on the gas outlet feed to the burners. This took some scrubbing and removing the carbon residue. Bits had burned onto the outlet and had to be scrapped off. Once all cleaned, replacing the burners was easy just had to place the balancing nuts in place and put on the burners. One problem arose the hood of the stove did not go back in place after replacing the burners so I then removed the balancing nuts put back on the burners stove top hood fit back in place and burners operated properly. This part of the repair took five minutes.

I removed all the burner heads with a torx driver & released the top of the stove by pushing in two clips with a screwdriver. I raised the top and located the thermostat as it fed through back of stove, then tied a line to the old thermostat to be used to pull the new one through. This did not work, so I removed a cover on the back of stove to provide more room & spread insulation apart so i could see hole. I was able to easily feed new thermostat through hole and reassemble.