JGSP23WEV1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

I removed the whole unit out by pulled the plug at the bottom and pulled the unit out, unplug the power cord , turn the gas line off, separate gas line from the stove. I pulled the unit out to have more room for me to work on it. I took the top part out and right hand side panel out. Now you can see the old clock/oven control (ERC II C). I wrote down the color of wire to the lettering on the controller board. I pulled the wires out from the old one. Then I put wires back to the new clock/oven control. I reinstalled and put the gas line back and plug in power cord. I test the unit. It is work very fine.

first I removed all the srews from the burners that hold the glass cooktop. I then disconected the two wires from the damaged gas valves and replaced them all four with the new ones. After that I put it all togehter and work just fine and celebrated with a good cold beer.

I have a GE Profile Gas Range that was installed by the builder in 1997. The porcelain bowl under the grate had chipped on all the elements. I replaced them easily..quickly...and was very cost effective...thanks for the great service...great site to order from. AC

I replaced the igniter under the knob.

Very easy once I got the right parts - when I ordered I didn't realize that the center holes were what determined whether I needed "small" or "medium/large"...I was going by the exterior dimensions I returned 3 of the 4 I ordered and re-ordered the right size. My wife ended up replacing the rest of them herself after watching me do the one that did fit. Looks like a new stove!

Shut of electric supply. Remove knobs and open top cover of cook top by removing two screws near each burner and replace switch.

The top is all glass so I took my time. There was about 12 screws and double sided tape. A lock washer holding the igniter on. It also gave me a chance to clean the hard to get to places. Your price was almost half of what a suppier here and getting it would have been 2 weeks compared to your 48 hours to my door. Thanks again

Took the frame off of the oven.
attached the outer door to the frame while keeping it flat.
Replaced the frame.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. . . ) It was like drinking juice

Repair was easy once I got the correct part. When the parts were listed as small and medium large I thought they were talking the diameter of the bowl. It turns out they are talking about the center hole in the bowl. So I needed one small and three large. Everything great now.....stove looks great and clean.

Cut off power to the cook top and confirm that power is actually off. In my case, this involved turning off a cicuit breaker. Remove all burner control knobs by pulling straight up. Lift off all grates, burner caps and burner heads. Remove two phillips head screws from each burner bowl. Pry each burner bowl up and unhook the ignitor wire. I labeled the wires to make sure I got them hooked back up right. Remove the four burner bowls by lifting them off. Make sure you remember where each goes so you can reinstall them in the right places. Pry up the glass cooktop and lift it off. I took the cooktop ouside and gave it a good cleaning. This plus cleaning around the cooktop and cleaning the burner bowls is what took most the time. Lift the defective switch off and disconnect the two wires. Align the flat in the new switch to the off position. Reconnect the wires and install the new switch on the valve stem. Reinstall the cook top. Reinstall the burner bowls making sure to reconnect the ignitor wires. Reinstall the burner heads, burner caps, grates and knobs. Turn the power back on and make sure everything works correctly.