JMP28BC1WH General Electric Range - Instructions
Jump to:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- John from San Ramon, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10010, WB30M2, WB30M1
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
I needed new surface elements & burner bowls
This was about the simplest fix I've ever done. Just pulled off the old surface elements & burner bowls, wiped down the range top, and put in the new parts. Perfect fit. No problems at all. $$ well spent. ParsSelect shipped quickly, and they arrived well packaged. A+ experience all around. Thanks PartSelect. JA, San Ramon, CA
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Tom from North Prairie, WI
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burner bowls needed replacement
Very easy repair, Pulled burner coil out, removed old burner bowl. Put in new burner bowl, plugged burner coil back in... easy as 1,2,3
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Stephen from Knoxville, TN
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burner Bowl Needed Replaced
Removed burner element and put in bowl
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- James from Austin, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB21X5301
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.
SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.
FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.
REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!
Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.
As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.
Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.
If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.
You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.
FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.
REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!
Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.
As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.
Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.
If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.
You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Americus from Pittsburgh, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006, WB31T10011, WB31T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Burned out block
Watched a repairman do it the last time for $200.00. This time I unplugged the stove, unscrewed four screw nuts holding the upper rear cover, unplugged old wires, reconnected new ones, fed them thru to the front, attached them to the new block, screwed the block into place, replaced back cover, stuck the element into place, made my little brother plug it back in and turn it on first. It worked. Cost me $20.00 to do what the repairman did the last time. I also replaced the reflector pans. No-brainer.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Martin from Tewksbury, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The stove's bowl were burned and a mess.
Pulled out burner and put new bowls in. Looks like a new stove!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- John from Eowell, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replaced old drip bowls
Took 5 minutes to replace the 4 bowls. Ordered the bowls one day & they arrived the next day All went perfect.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Dianne from Rockville, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5009
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The broiler element caught fire and burned out while I was broiling a steak.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches, but I had not turned off the power.
So, I shorted out one of the wires. Then I turned off the power but was afraid to go any farther.
An appliance repairman was at my house that day fixing my dryer seal. He was able to pull the wires through the insulation successfully and install the broiler element. He did not charge me any extra for this little extra job. But I learned my lesson. Cut the power before you begin! He told me that I could have wound up with a much bigger repair if the short had been in the wire that is connected to the control panel of the oven. I was very lucky!
So, I shorted out one of the wires. Then I turned off the power but was afraid to go any farther.
An appliance repairman was at my house that day fixing my dryer seal. He was able to pull the wires through the insulation successfully and install the broiler element. He did not charge me any extra for this little extra job. But I learned my lesson. Cut the power before you begin! He told me that I could have wound up with a much bigger repair if the short had been in the wire that is connected to the control panel of the oven. I was very lucky!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- douglas from louisville, KY
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
burner was shorting out
unplugged unit pulled it away from wall took off the backplates traced wire to plug replaced with part ordered very smooth operation. the most impressive thing to me was i ordered part on computer and it was at my door in 30 hours awesome.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Kim from Garland, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Top broiler element went out
FIRST MAKE SURE THE OVEN IS OFF!!!! I chose to shut it off at the breaker panel. Remove the two screws that attaches the broiler element to the oven. Gently pull it out. Unplug the two cable wires that are attached. Replace it and install the same way.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- B. from Seattle, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB31T10011, WB31T10010, WB30M1
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
bottom of heating element corroded
PartsSelect is the BEST!! This is the second time I've had to use them on home appliances. Their web site was easy to use, shipping was fast, prices competitive and instructions very easy to follow. I would not hesitate to use them again. Very happy with service from the get-go.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Replacement of Coils
Removed by slightly wiggling out of the coupling. No tools needed, seriously, (and I'm a contractor). Basically, pull out and snap back in.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Michael from Lawrenceville, GA
- Parts Used:
- WB21X5301
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven would not heat to the correct temperature
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Joseph from Brick, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB21X5301
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
F2 error message on my GE oven indicated need for new heat sensor
After unscrewing the old heat sensor from inside the oven, I pulled the range away from the wall, got behind it and removed the small panel over the heat sensor. Naturally, the plastic clips connecting the heat sensor to the range wiring wouldn't come apart, so I eventually had to simply pry them apart with two pliers. Then, naturally, the new plastic connector clip on the replacement part didn't match the clip from the range, so I had to cut off both receptacles and strip the wires, then used the provided wire nuts to make the connections. After that, it was easy, just secured the heat sensor inside the oven and replaced the panel. I didn't push the range back against the wall until I tested the repair. It worked fine!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Kimberly from El Cerrito, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replacement of heating element
If I'd had the Nut driver, it would have taken 15 -20 minutes or less. Went to Ace Hardware, bought the nut driver for $4.99.
Turn off the power at the box! Turn off the oven as well. Four screws total. Two to hold it in place and two that connect the element to the source.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I pulled the element out about 2 inches. Two more screws connect the element wires. I disconnected the element, threw it away, then connected the new element. I put the element in place, then replaced the screws that connect the power. Finally, I replaced the screws that hold the element in place.
Kimberly, El Cerrito, California
Turn off the power at the box! Turn off the oven as well. Four screws total. Two to hold it in place and two that connect the element to the source.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I pulled the element out about 2 inches. Two more screws connect the element wires. I disconnected the element, threw it away, then connected the new element. I put the element in place, then replaced the screws that connect the power. Finally, I replaced the screws that hold the element in place.
Kimberly, El Cerrito, California
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!