JSP39WV1WW General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Timothy from Cordova, TN
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5012
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Bake element cracked on its own
Flipped the breaker. Removed shelf, Find the right size nut socket, unscrew the two screws, pull the element out a little bit, disconnect the wires (on pretty tight), pull out element, clean out any mess in the oven, compare element with new one to make sure its the same size and such, connect wires to new element, replace screws, flip breaker back, turn on for a few minutes to make sure it works. Piece of cake.
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- Customer:
- Sandra from Hayward, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5012
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven took 30 minutes to get to 380 degrees-no hotter
First I searched this site and read about the repairs - which made me feel like my husband could do it with ease. Then he removed two screws inside the oven, removed the broken element (didn't know it was broken til removed) and replaced the new one - just like that! The real key was being able to read how it was for other people who had already done it. That's the only reason I'm submitting my storey. Thanks
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- Customer:
- Laura from N. Little Rock, AR
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5012
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bake element burned out
I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. Then I removed the two screws from the old element, pulled the old element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires from the element and installed the new one.
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- Customer:
- Scot from Oakland, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Large burner on dual element burned out
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:
1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.
2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.
2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.
3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.
4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.
5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.
6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.
7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.
8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.
9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.
10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.
11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.
12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).
13. Turn on the breaker and test again.
Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.
2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.
2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.
3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.
4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.
5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.
6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.
7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.
8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.
9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.
10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.
11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.
12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).
13. Turn on the breaker and test again.
Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
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- Customer:
- David from Nye, MT
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5012
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
lower bake element broken
Removed 2 screws that hold element and pulled old element out about 2 inches to disconnect the wires from the old element. Connected the new element and remounted to rear oven wall. Very simple and saved a visit from the appliance repairman.
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- Customer:
- Danny from Trinity, NC
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5012
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Daughter dropped dish on element......broke it!
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
the repeated the process to complete the installation.
Relly easy.
the repeated the process to complete the installation.
Relly easy.
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- Customer:
- Betty from Athelstane, WI
- Parts Used:
- WB44K5012
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Bake element burnt in half
TURNED OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER. Removed nut, washer and screw, pulled out electric burner about three inches, disconnected electric terminals and removed damaged element. Inserted new element into oven, connected electric terminals, pushed electric prongs back in, screwed element to back wall of oven....DONE Easy as 123
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- Customer:
- Kevin from Leominster, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10045
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Large burner would not get hot
Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!
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- Customer:
- Frank from St Augustine, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB30X44826
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Coil Burned Out
Open lid,un screw coil,pop in new coil snap holders in place,then cook a steak
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- Customer:
- JERALD from PHENIX CITY, AL
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Two part burner, outer ring not working
The outer ring on the adjustable large haliant surface burner of our smooth top stove would not work. It would only work on the small (inner) size.
Found the part on this site, ordered, 3 days later, and it was fixing time.
2 screws removed to lift cooktop, 2 screws to remove old burner and disconnected 4 electric clips one at a time and placed them in same position on new burner. Replace the 4 screws and done.
VERY SIMPLE.
Found the part on this site, ordered, 3 days later, and it was fixing time.
2 screws removed to lift cooktop, 2 screws to remove old burner and disconnected 4 electric clips one at a time and placed them in same position on new burner. Replace the 4 screws and done.
VERY SIMPLE.
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- Customer:
- LANCE from ORELAND, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB30X44826
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Heating element burned out.
Unplugged range. Opened oven door and removed two screws from top of oven opening. Lifted oven top and propped up
with a 2 x 3.Unscrewed the two screws that were holding
with a 2 x 3.Unscrewed the two screws that were holding
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- Customer:
- Van from Hyde Park, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Inner element of dual burner died
-Turn off breaker
-Undo the two screws that hold the top surface down
-Prop up top surface with a board
-Remove two screws/spring clips holding burner
-Transfer electrical plugs to new burner (this was the most challenging part)
-Screw new burner in place
-Lower surface
-Secure surface
-Undo the two screws that hold the top surface down
-Prop up top surface with a board
-Remove two screws/spring clips holding burner
-Transfer electrical plugs to new burner (this was the most challenging part)
-Screw new burner in place
-Lower surface
-Secure surface
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- Customer:
- Michael from Albuquerque, NM
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10147
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Convection oven fan and door light not working
The first step was to determine whether the problem was with the fan itself or the switch. I did this by opening the back cover and using a Volt meter to verify that the fan was not getting power. (I could have skipped this step.)
Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two hex head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.
Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.
Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two hex head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.
Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.
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- Customer:
- John from Hopewell Junction, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10045
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Left rear element would not get hot.
FIRST TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKERS THAT POWER THE COOKTOP!! Remove the cooktop from the counter by removing the screws from the mounting straps under the counter. Then remove the screws that hold the glass cooktop to the frame and lift off the glass top. Next lift up the bad element and unplug one wire from the bad element and plug it into the new element. Make sure to put it on the exact same terminal of the new element. Do this for all the wires. Remove the two mounting tabs from the old element and put them on the new element. Turn on circuit breakers and your done.
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- Customer:
- paula from East Grand Rapids, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB30T10099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Center of large burner stopped working.
First and foremost, I am a 63 year old cooky baking GRANDMOTHER. I don't know anything about fixing appliances. I read the other repair stories pertaining to my burner and I thought, "why not."
It was a snap!
My part arrived the very next day, bless you Parts Select! I just did what the others (see above) did: I removed 2 screws to release the stove top, then I took a few digital photos to be sure I would know where the wires went. I released the old burner, pulled out the thingamajigs that held the wires in the old burner, then pushed the new ones in their place, replaced the stove top, plugged it back in, turned it on and jumped for joy! If I can do this, anyone can.
It was a snap!
My part arrived the very next day, bless you Parts Select! I just did what the others (see above) did: I removed 2 screws to release the stove top, then I took a few digital photos to be sure I would know where the wires went. I released the old burner, pulled out the thingamajigs that held the wires in the old burner, then pushed the new ones in their place, replaced the stove top, plugged it back in, turned it on and jumped for joy! If I can do this, anyone can.
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