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JBP23
JBP23 General Electric Range
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$22.91
This burner bowl, also known as a drip bowl, is an authentic OEM part for your electric range or cooktop. This part is black in color and designed to fit under the 8-inch coiled burner elements and is...
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$18.54
This genuine OEM burner bowl, also known as a drip tray, is black and color and measures 6 inches in diameter. It is designed to be used under the coiled elements on an electric stove or range, in ord...
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This Y-frame six inch surface burner element has five turns and a metallic center medallion.
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The infinite switch controls the stove top surface burner. This switch will work with most of the electrical range models with coil burner elements.
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$37.49
This set of 3 clock timer knobs let you set and change the settings on your range clock. These genuine OEM knobs are made of black plastic and measure approximately 1-inch long.
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This medallion is located in the middle of the surface burner.
No Longer Available
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Common Problems and Symptoms for JBP23
Viewing 4 of 4Element will not heat
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Timer will not advance
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Will Not Start
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How to fix it
Little to no heat when broiling
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How to fix it
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- Customer:
- Robert from Mt. Vernon, IN
- Parts Used:
- WB2X8228
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The Bake-o-lite (Hard Plastic) block that holds the burners female connection in place had chipped away over time and wouldn't allow the male part of the burner to connect up correctly.
After unplugging the range I took the rear sheet metal panel at the top off with a nut driver to expose the wiring connections. The next step was to remove the single screw holding the old part in place. (under the drip pan) Once free I snipped the old part from the wires and then taped the new female ends to the old wires with black elec
... Read more
trical tape. From rear I carfully pulled the old wires through the back until I could reach the new wiring connections. Unplugged old, plugged in new and replaced the rear metal cover. Then I put the screw that holds the new block bracket in place, replaced drip pan, and burner. The final step was to plug the range back in and check to see if the burner worked. It did and I was done. Approx. 5 minutes
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- Customer:
- Scott from Olathe, KS
- Parts Used:
- WB2X8228, WB21X36771
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Front burner would not heat up
1. Pull out range and unplug from socket.
2. Lift range lid.
3. Remove back panel. Loosen the 6 - 1/4" nuts, then lift up slightly, which compresses the "latch" at the top middle. Let down and panel comes off easily.
(Note: Do not remove wires yet)
4. Remove control knob from front panel by pulling gently, exposing ... Read more 2 small tap screws
5. unscrew the 2 small tap screws, freeing the switch.
6. NOTE THE EXISTING WIRING! Each terminal has a letter. Take a photo or drawing for reference, because the new switch's post locations were not the same as the old.
7. In my case I had to replace the terminal block kit with a new one. (don't try the aftermarket one's at Home Depot...bad idea event though they say Hotpoint) so I ran those wires first. Easy removal of old, only one wire clip, then fish the wires through. Secure with tap screw at burner location.
8. Hook up the wires. The ones coming from the burner don't seem to matter which one goes to which post but make sure you're replacing them on the posts that the original were on. What I did was just unhook the old posts one at a time and find the corresponding letter on the new one.
9. Break off stem at length of old switch with pliers. make sure you find where off and on are on the switch. Orient the off at the top, then push through from back of range.
10. Screw the 2 tap screws in, securing the switch.
11. Place the orange retainer oriented with flat side the same as the knob, and push the knob back in place.
12. Close lid, replace back panel
13. Insert drip pan/burner into terminal block and secure in drip pan. If your burner plugs are corroded or exposed, replace the burner as it will short out.
14. Plug in to socket and test before pushing range back into place.
2. Lift range lid.
3. Remove back panel. Loosen the 6 - 1/4" nuts, then lift up slightly, which compresses the "latch" at the top middle. Let down and panel comes off easily.
(Note: Do not remove wires yet)
4. Remove control knob from front panel by pulling gently, exposing ... Read more 2 small tap screws
5. unscrew the 2 small tap screws, freeing the switch.
6. NOTE THE EXISTING WIRING! Each terminal has a letter. Take a photo or drawing for reference, because the new switch's post locations were not the same as the old.
7. In my case I had to replace the terminal block kit with a new one. (don't try the aftermarket one's at Home Depot...bad idea event though they say Hotpoint) so I ran those wires first. Easy removal of old, only one wire clip, then fish the wires through. Secure with tap screw at burner location.
8. Hook up the wires. The ones coming from the burner don't seem to matter which one goes to which post but make sure you're replacing them on the posts that the original were on. What I did was just unhook the old posts one at a time and find the corresponding letter on the new one.
9. Break off stem at length of old switch with pliers. make sure you find where off and on are on the switch. Orient the off at the top, then push through from back of range.
10. Screw the 2 tap screws in, securing the switch.
11. Place the orange retainer oriented with flat side the same as the knob, and push the knob back in place.
12. Close lid, replace back panel
13. Insert drip pan/burner into terminal block and secure in drip pan. If your burner plugs are corroded or exposed, replace the burner as it will short out.
14. Plug in to socket and test before pushing range back into place.
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Replacement of Coils
Removed by slightly wiggling out of the coupling. No tools needed, seriously, (and I'm a contractor). Basically, pull out and snap back in.
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