RAS200DM1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. Unscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient

unplug stove first...take back of stove off to get to burner switch remove wires colors coded.. get new switch put wires on the same way.plug stove in test burner...very simple to replace.and save $$$$$$$$

Unplug stove first. Raised the stove top and propped up useing wooden spoon and wife assistance holding up. Pay attention to spot brackets hand to top. Removed sheet metal screws from bracket clamp holding burner in place. Removed one extension bracket from old burner and transfeered to new burner. Removeing one bracket clamp allows the other one to act like a hinge and make for easy removal and replacement. Back of burner had corresponding numbers which made it easy to replace brackets in same place as old. I carefully take one electrical wire at a time from old burner and transfeered to the new burner. Replaced burner same way it came off.

took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..

Red Light Off

I lifted out the burners and took out the old drip pans ans then replaced the burners. However the 8 inch pans were bigger than the old ones and they do not fit properly. They are sitting on top of the stove and not inserted like they should be. I will have to look elsewhere to find ones that fit.

No repair necessary, but the service was excellent!

Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.

After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove the swith assembley from the front panel.

I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)

took the old one out and dropped the new one in, replaced the electric burner and done

thw worse part was paying as much for s&h as i did for the part itself

Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connections. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!

OK, I put the drip pan under the burner. Without a single problem.

Fue muy facil desconectar primero la estufa despues quite los tornillos de la parte superior detras de la estufa, desconecte un cable del switch y lo conecte en el nuevo despues el siguiente hasta conectar todos los cables en el nuevo switch. Lo mejor es desconectar uno por uno para mo mesclar los cables , despues removi el switch de la estufa y puse el nuevo , puse las partes de regreso y listo conecte la estufa t revise si funcionava el quemador y listo sin ningun problema.

unplugged the range removed 4 screws from back top cover then took the knob off controller removed 2 screws from behind the knob removed 1 wirer at a time and placed it on the new controller in same order the wires came off put everything back to gather did not fix the problem .

Replaced element control switches