Models > J776E1

J776E1 General Electric Range

Jump to:

Find Part by Name

Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
If the drip bowls on your range or cooktop have become damaged, rusty, or are missing, they should be replaced. This is a genuine OEM replacement drip bowl that is chrome in color and 6 inches in diam...
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
This kit includes an 8", three wire, 2450W surface element. This low rise element has an attached trim ring, and a terminal block with all three-wire units.
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
This is a broiler pan for your range. It catches drippings from the cookware, when broiling in the oven. This assembly includes the grill/grate and the bottom pan. These parts are made of porcelain. T...
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
This 6-inch high-rise surface element is designed to deliver consistent and efficient heat distribution for electric cooktops. Engineered for rapid heating, it supports a wide range of cooking tasks—f...
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
The depth of the terminals is 2.5 inches, and the screw-in terminals are 1.5 inches apart.
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
No Longer Available
This oven broil element has push on terminals.
No Longer Available
The length of this thermostat's capillary is 62 inches.
No Longer Available
No Longer Available
$158.95
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 22
No Longer Available

Questions and Answers

Be the first to ask our experts a question about this part!

Common Problems and Symptoms for J776E1

Viewing 2 of 2
Element will not heat
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Little to no heat when baking
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Barbara from Smyrna, GA
Parts Used:
WB30X354
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
50+ Yr Old Cooktop Burner had one of its two coils burn out
The hardest thing was finding the part to order! The GE Cooktop is from 1957 when the house was built. I followed the instructions that came with it. After seeing where the screw on hinge was supposed to be, I cleaned away the caked grease and finally saw the screw. I had to use a nut driver to remove it since it didn't have a slot for a screwdriver. Once that screw was out, the rest was easy. Before disconnecting any wires, I laid the new and old parts beside each other and drew a diagram showing where each wire (red, black & white) connected. It was a bit scary stripping the wires since they were old and fragile. It said to bend them into a "U" and solder but I didn't have soldering skill or equipment so I just tightened the screws holding the wires carefully. The connections are all nicely isolated in the bakelite insulator so it didn't seem cruicial. After working the new unit into place and turning on the power (at the circuit breaker), the burner worked perfectly. The replacement part looked exactly like the original. I was so amazed to be able to obtain the replacement burner after all these years! Thank-you PartsSelect!
22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Customer:
John from Granite City, IL
Parts Used:
WB30X356
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Burner had shorted out
It was so easy. I turned off the power to the range, loosened the hinge screw and removed the burner unit from the stovetop. Next I removed the two spring clips holding the ceramic housing covering the three connectors. Then I loosened the three screws holding the 3 wire connectors to the burner, reconnected the 3 wires to the new bur ner unit, positioned the ceramic insulator housing and reinstalled the spring clips and finally replaced and tightened the hinge screw. It took about 5 or six minutes, max.
You can do this!
18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Customer:
John D. from Thousand Oaks, CA
Parts Used:
WB44X195
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers
The lower bake element in the upper oven burnt out.
In order to determine what was wrong with the oven I used a voltage meter to determine if power was coming to the element in the first place. Be careful to set your meter at least 500 ACV, as the oven is operating at 240V. Remove the two screws that hold the element in place and carefully pull it out of the side of the oven. Turn on t he bake element in the upper oven and place your test leads to either side of the connection leads. If you get a reading of 240Volts plus or minus you will know for sure the element is bad.
Turn off the oven, or even better turn off the circuit breaker to your stove.
There are two leads to the element that are held in place by self taping screws. If you have the same luck I have they will be corroded together. Carefully use long nose pliers to hold steady while gently applying pressure. If necessary use liquid wrench. When separated put together in the reverse order as how you took it apart.
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!