Models > FFEF3052TSA

FFEF3052TSA Frigidaire Range

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The infinite burner switch is used to control the temperature of the burner element on your stove top. This model is for the larger, eight-inch element. If your burner is not heating up or has uneven ...
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$26.20
This 40-watt light bulb has a standard screw-in base and is used in many different appliances. If your current bulb is burnt out or broken you will need to replace it. This light bulb is a genuine OEM...
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This is the electronic clock timer mechanism only. The overlay or touch pad is NOT included. To get the overlay, please use the model# of your appliance to search.
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This is a genuine OEM replacement temperature sensor for your range. You may need to replace the sensor if there is little to no heat in the oven, the oven will not start, it is not heating evenly, or...
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This surface burner switch controls the temperature of the stove top 6-inch surface burner. This switch is 240-volt, 1250-1500 watt, and 5.2-6.25 amp. If your element will not heat and is not defectiv...
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$74.23
Sold individually.
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This is also called the heat barrier glass.
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This oven broil element provides direct heat from the top of the oven, supporting both broiling and some baking functions. It measures approximately 12 ½" x 18 ½" and is rated for 3000 watts at 240 vo...
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Order quantity needed.
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The 6” radiant cooking element with limiter fits under the glass cooktop and supplies heat to the cooking area. If your element is not heating, you can test the element for continuity with a multimete...
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This bake element is found on the bottom of the oven.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for FFEF3052TSA

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Oven is too hot
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Touchpad does not respond
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Oven not heating evenly
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Door won’t close
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Will not program
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Customer:
William from Burke, VA
Parts Used:
316436001
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Back Burner didn't function
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.

I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.

I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.

So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.

Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
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Customer:
earl from seattle, WA
Parts Used:
5304518660
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven elements would not heat
Initially, I tested the temperature sensor and it was OK. I pulled out the range and shut off the circuit breaker to it. I removed the upper back sheet metal panel to expose the clock timer. I removed the 4 screws to it, unplugged the wires to it and plugged them into the new clock timer. I carefully removed the plastic facing stuck t o the face of the old clock timer and stuck it on the new clock timer. No new adhesive was necessary. I placed the newly connected clock timer in position and secured it with the 4 screws that secured the old clock timer. I pushed the range back into position and reset the circuit breaker. I turned the oven on and the problem was resolved.
119 of 133 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
MaryLou from Monroe, NC
Parts Used:
316233903
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Range would not come on
Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe.
I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up.
the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wir es.
After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.
107 of 192 people found this instruction helpful.
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