CFEF3043RSA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.

I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.

I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.

So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.

Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!

Initially, I tested the temperature sensor and it was OK. I pulled out the range and shut off the circuit breaker to it. I removed the upper back sheet metal panel to expose the clock timer. I removed the 4 screws to it, unplugged the wires to it and plugged them into the new clock timer. I carefully removed the plastic facing stuck to the face of the old clock timer and stuck it on the new clock timer. No new adhesive was necessary. I placed the newly connected clock timer in position and secured it with the 4 screws that secured the old clock timer. I pushed the range back into position and reset the circuit breaker. I turned the oven on and the problem was resolved.

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe.
I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up.
the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wires.
After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.

First we removed two screws under the rim of the range top to open the lid. Lifted the lid and removed the screws from the bracket that holds the elements, Be careful with the clips that hold the element in, if you break them or bend them there aren't any more! Also note which holes they were in, they are marked according to the different sizes of elements. Disconnected the wires, needed needlenose pliers to grip them...connected new element, popped it back in place, replaced bracket, closed top ...Easy peasy!!!

One day my wife turned on the oven and it didn't get hot. The heating element was cold even after it was turned on for a few minutes. The same story with the broiler. The stove top and timer worked fine, you could turn the oven on, it just never even started to heat up.
I ordered the new clock assembly and it got to my house in 2 or 3 days.
Once I got the new clock assembly, it was pretty easy to put in. Just take the back panel off (6 screws), unplug 5 or 6 wires, and 2 more screws and the old clock assembly is out. I peeled off the face sticker from my old clock and stuck it on the new one.
Putting it back in was just the reverse of taking the old one out. 2 screws, plugging in the wires, and then putting the back panel on.
Its been working as good as new for over a month.

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Removed the back cover of the range. Removed the knob from the front of the switch. Removed 2 screws holding switch to range. Removed wires one at a time and connected to proper poles on replacement switch and reinstalled new switch on range

VERY IMPORTANT! kill the circuit breaker to the unit and/or unplugged it! 2 screws hold the ceramic glass top to the lip @ top of oven--remove them and the top can be lifted up to expose all the burner elements and wiring--remove the 2 end screws that hold the retainer bracket for the burners - then remove the 2 screws that hold the burner in question to the bracket-there's also a retainer pin that needs a bit of fussing with to completely free the burner--once totally free remove the wires from the bad unit to the good unit exactly as they are situated --install new unit onto bracket with screws and bracket back to its original location on the ceramic top-put top back down and replace both anchor screws--initiate power back to unit and yeeehahh--You just saved yourself lottsa money from repair bills!!!

FIRST I UNPLUGGED THE GLASS TOP RANGE. While locating the part on the PartSelect diagram I was also able to determine how to access the burned out element. It was very simply to remove three phillips head screws in the front top( above the oven)area of the range, slide the topof the range forwardand lift it up, remove one screw holding the metal bar under the element, replace the element by usinga a pair of pliers to remove the electrical wires and then reversed the process. I saved a tidy amount doing the job myself.

Flip up top, remove wires and two screws. Replace in opposite way. Turn off power to stove first.

I had to replace the switch in the back of the control knobs. I was very grateful to the female phone attendant who answered my call. Since my part number had switched a few times, she took the time to reverify the "blueprints" of my machine with the parts carried at Parts Select and she helped me be assured that I was buying the correct part for my machine. She was SOOOO helpful. Will definately buy again from your store.

Pulled stove away from wall until I could access behind it. Disconnected power source, used nut driver to remove 7 small hex screws with nut driver, from back cover, slide down and away. Disconnect two wire( 1 from each end of element). Open oven door, remove all shelves, remove two screws inside oven on back wall, pull out old element. Guide in new element(gently guide each end through access holes in back of oven, line unscrew holes with retaining clips, insert screws. Place racks back in oven. Reattach back panelnwith 7 screws, plug power source back in. Slide oven back into place. Done.

I disconnected power cord. Removed cooking racks. Removed element mounting screws. Removed back panel and removed wires on both ends. Pulled element out put new one in and bolted down. Reconnected wires. Put rear cover on. Plugged in and checked for correct opreation. OK!

Turn off the breaker to the stove. Very important because when you move the control panel around after removing it, you can inadvertently touch a hot wire to a grounded metal part on the stove. Remove the 3 nuts from the back of the control panel and the two nuts from under neath the control panel on either far side. Pull the control knob off by pulling straight away from the control panel. Remove the switch by unscrewing the two screws. Match the 5 wires from the old switch to the new switch by removing one at a time and paying attention to the labeling of each on both switches. Reassemble in reverse order. Turn breaker back on.