FFEF3012LSA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

used a screwdriver pushed the old ones out put the new in. the video instructions were great.

Inserted new slide as directed by video. Very easy and video was very helpful.

Pulled broken one out, slid in the new. Most unbeliveable service I have ever received. Tremndous job, you should sell it to others, Many thanks

We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.

I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.

I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.

So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.

Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!

Initially, I tested the temperature sensor and it was OK. I pulled out the range and shut off the circuit breaker to it. I removed the upper back sheet metal panel to expose the clock timer. I removed the 4 screws to it, unplugged the wires to it and plugged them into the new clock timer. I carefully removed the plastic facing stuck to the face of the old clock timer and stuck it on the new clock timer. No new adhesive was necessary. I placed the newly connected clock timer in position and secured it with the 4 screws that secured the old clock timer. I pushed the range back into position and reset the circuit breaker. I turned the oven on and the problem was resolved.

Frst I slid the drawer out.I then pryed the broken drawer glides off with a flat blade screwdriver. The new drawer glides then just snap into place,then reinstall the drawer and check for smooth operation.

The old glides were broken off so I didn't know I needed these glides until I saw the parts section of the Manuel. When they arrived I snapped them in with no effort at all.
P.S. The shipping is fantastic here......i ordered on Monday received them on Tuesday. Now that's shipping:>)

The two back door glides were missing and broken (one of each), and needed to be replaced. Finding the parts online was MUCH easier than I expected,and the repair was remarkably simple. Parts snapped into place, the drawer had to be lined up, and it slid right into place. Very easy!

It was so easy my wife did it bu snapping in the new clips.

This was very simple I just snap the part on no tools required. it took less than 2 seconds.

Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe.
I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up.
the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wires.
After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.

First we removed two screws under the rim of the range top to open the lid. Lifted the lid and removed the screws from the bracket that holds the elements, Be careful with the clips that hold the element in, if you break them or bend them there aren't any more! Also note which holes they were in, they are marked according to the different sizes of elements. Disconnected the wires, needed needlenose pliers to grip them...connected new element, popped it back in place, replaced bracket, closed top ...Easy peasy!!!

One day my wife turned on the oven and it didn't get hot. The heating element was cold even after it was turned on for a few minutes. The same story with the broiler. The stove top and timer worked fine, you could turn the oven on, it just never even started to heat up.
I ordered the new clock assembly and it got to my house in 2 or 3 days.
Once I got the new clock assembly, it was pretty easy to put in. Just take the back panel off (6 screws), unplug 5 or 6 wires, and 2 more screws and the old clock assembly is out. I peeled off the face sticker from my old clock and stuck it on the new one.
Putting it back in was just the reverse of taking the old one out. 2 screws, plugging in the wires, and then putting the back panel on.
Its been working as good as new for over a month.

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Removed the back cover of the range. Removed the knob from the front of the switch. Removed 2 screws holding switch to range. Removed wires one at a time and connected to proper poles on replacement switch and reinstalled new switch on range