Models > BKEF3048LSD

BKEF3048LSD Frigidaire Range

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Manuals & Guides for BKEF3048LSD

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The infinite burner switch is used to control the temperature of the burner element on your stove top. This model is for the larger, eight-inch element. If your burner is not heating up or has uneven ...
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$19.73
Clear, 120 Volt, 40 Watt.
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If your oven has little to no heat, is not heating evenly, or is reaching too high a temperature, there may be a problem with your oven probe. This probe, also known as an oven temperature sensor or a...
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This switch controls the stove top surface burner.
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$121.67
This is a replacement rack for your oven. The oven rack fits into grooves on the side of the oven wall, and acts as a shelf that you can place food items on when you want to cook them in the oven. Thi...
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Terminal blocks (also called terminal boards or strips) provide a convenient means of connecting individual electrical wires.
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$139.23
This is used as the "floor" of the oven cabinet. Note: Does not come with rivets or screws. Must be purchased locally.
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$10.90
This is a light bulb lens, and it is made for your oven. This part protects the light bulb inside your oven by covering it. The lens is made of glass, and has a 3-inch diameter. Before making this rep...
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Dual Element with Limiter -9 Inch /6 Inch - 1300W 1200W. With this element, you can adjust the size of the burner you want to use to match your pots/pans.
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This is an anti-tip kit for your range. The kit comes with two installation screws, one metal bracket, and instructions. The kit stops your freestanding range from tipping over due to extra weight on ...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for BKEF3048LSD

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven is too hot
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Will Not Start
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Oven not heating evenly
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Door won’t close
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Touchpad does not respond
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Door won’t open after self cleaning cycle
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Will not program
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Customer:
William from Burke, VA
Parts Used:
316436001
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Back Burner didn't function
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.

I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.

I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.

So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.

Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
125 of 136 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Timothy from Spring Valley, AL
Parts Used:
5304409888
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
Cord was not tightened enough by delivery crew.
PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools neede d are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.
95 of 148 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Lori from Winter Haven, FL
Parts Used:
318178110
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
burned out burner
First we removed two screws under the rim of the range top to open the lid. Lifted the lid and removed the screws from the bracket that holds the elements, Be careful with the clips that hold the element in, if you break them or bend them there aren't any more! Also note which holes they were in, they are marked according to the differ ent sizes of elements. Disconnected the wires, needed needlenose pliers to grip them...connected new element, popped it back in place, replaced bracket, closed top ...Easy peasy!!!
67 of 86 people found this instruction helpful.
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