FED367DBA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

The repair was simple; first I removed the 2 screws from the old element and disconnected the wires and then I inserted the new element reconnected the wires and replaced the screws . The repair was easy and took less that 15 min. The oven works as good as new and I saved alot of money by doing it myself.

Replaced clock control by removing surface burner control knobs and plastic nuts, and then the cover over the oven control. Two screw hold the clock in place, after removal and disconnecting the plug-in you can reinstall the new clock control. The Heat Sensor inside the oven will also need to be replaced. It is located inside the oven and attached with two screws; the back of the oven will need to be removed to unplug. Reverse removal procedure and turn the power back on to the stove.

I pulled my unit out of the wall and noticed that the insulation around the top broiler element was a bit brown. Closer inspection revealed that the element had shorted somehow to the oven itself and caused the element to become non-functional. I tried measuring the resistance first, and it was within typical values for the other elements, but I decided to replace the element anyway.

I ordered from PD and the part arrived just a few days letter by regular shipping. I undid the screws holding in the element, undid the wire connectors and replaced the broken element with the new one. The element worked like a charm and I was back in business for cooking.

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

PartsSelect serivce was AMAZING - I ordered online on Sunday afternoon, and the part arrived Tuesday with standard shipping! First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires from the old element, then replaced with new. WARNING - you MUST kill the breaker, because the element is "hot" even when it's off.

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

VERY IMPORTANT! kill the circuit breaker to the unit and/or unplugged it! 2 screws hold the ceramic glass top to the lip @ top of oven--remove them and the top can be lifted up to expose all the burner elements and wiring--remove the 2 end screws that hold the retainer bracket for the burners - then remove the 2 screws that hold the burner in question to the bracket-there's also a retainer pin that needs a bit of fussing with to completely free the burner--once totally free remove the wires from the bad unit to the good unit exactly as they are situated --install new unit onto bracket with screws and bracket back to its original location on the ceramic top-put top back down and replace both anchor screws--initiate power back to unit and yeeehahh--You just saved yourself lottsa money from repair bills!!!

FIRST I UNPLUGGED THE GLASS TOP RANGE. While locating the part on the PartSelect diagram I was also able to determine how to access the burned out element. It was very simply to remove three phillips head screws in the front top( above the oven)area of the range, slide the topof the range forwardand lift it up, remove one screw holding the metal bar under the element, replace the element by usinga a pair of pliers to remove the electrical wires and then reversed the process. I saved a tidy amount doing the job myself.

I removed the two screws and then used pliers to pry apart the wiring. I unplugged the connectors and removed the element. The new unit arrived in three days and I plugged it in, replaced the screws and turned the oven on and made a pie! Very Satisfying and easier then I ever thought it would be. We figured we saved $200.00. The service place where we live charges $125.00 to come out and assess and then parts and service on top of that.

FIRST, SHUT OFF the entire CIRCUIT for the range/oven at your breaker panel/fuse box, and verify it is OFF by testing the range/oven. Then...
1) remove range knobs, 2) use flathead screwdriver to unscrew plastic rings beneath knobs, 3) lift up face plate and disconnect oven light switch wires, 4) remove screws for metal plate that knob switches mount to, 5) tilt plate forward and replace each wire onto the new switch, one at a time, being certain to match the markings, 6) remove old switch, by taking out two screws, and put new switch in its place, 7) reassemble everything and your done.

killed the 50 amp power. removed 3 screws from above oven door slid out cook top, dropped brace holding 2 front burners. The connector corroded off had to look for a high heat connector to connect to the element, after that just screwed everything back together.

Took out the bad element and replaced it with the new element in less than 5 minutes. Simple Stuff with the right part. Thanks Parts Select!

Easier than painting my toenails!! The gasket came out easily just by pulling with my hands. Replacing it with the new one was even simpler. The clips are already attached to the gasket and easily slip into the holes on the door. I used the end of a tupperware orange peeler to push the unfinished ends of the gasket into a slot at the bottom and that was it! A new, perfect seal and it looks and works great!

All of a sudden, one element in our glasstop range would not light and heat up. My wife and I were not sure what to do. Looked it up on the internet, found that you can do it yourself as others desribed the process of accessing the elements below. We decided to do that. It takes two people as one is holding up the glass because it opens like a car hood. While we diagnosed it was not a wiring issue (found a burnt wire, rewired the burnt wires (after mending the non burnt portions) to another element. The element that was not working before still did not turn on. Decided to purchase an element. While many online places sell elements, PartSelect actually allowed searching by brand with exploded views of the range to select the exact parts. This lessened the worry of purchasing a wrong element. When the part came (almost one day later), the repair was less than five minutes. Thank you PartSelect. I feel I saved a lot of money and aggravation.

I looked online and read what other people had done. The best advice was keeping all the screws in the order they were taken out. I also separated the screws that had come from the top, sides and inner side of the door. This helped immensely as I reassembled the door. I spread out a heavy garbage bag that I cut open. This kept debris and glass off of my kitchen floor. This is NOT a difficult repair; Parts Select said it would take three days to get me the glass; it arrived in TWO! Start to finish, the entire job took just about an hour. I saved myself over $100, and again, this is NOT difficult!