PLES389ECG Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Replaced clock control by removing surface burner control knobs and plastic nuts, and then the cover over the oven control. Two screw hold the clock in place, after removal and disconnecting the plug-in you can reinstall the new clock control. The Heat Sensor inside the oven will also need to be replaced. It is located inside the oven and attached with two screws; the back of the oven will need to be removed to unplug. Reverse removal procedure and turn the power back on to the stove.

I pulled my unit out of the wall and noticed that the insulation around the top broiler element was a bit brown. Closer inspection revealed that the element had shorted somehow to the oven itself and caused the element to become non-functional. I tried measuring the resistance first, and it was within typical values for the other elements, but I decided to replace the element anyway.

I ordered from PD and the part arrived just a few days letter by regular shipping. I undid the screws holding in the element, undid the wire connectors and replaced the broken element with the new one. The element worked like a charm and I was back in business for cooking.

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

Repair was quite easy, as long as you have the instructions for removing the door. The screws that hold the bottom of the door to the fixed hinge are placed into the side of the hinge assembly after removal; this holds the door at a 45 degree angle for easy removal. After that, just place the door on a flat surface and dismantle the door from the inside. The inner glass is contained in a metal frame with another piece of glass; this frame comes apart easily using the clips in each side. The door assembles easily after the glass is replaced; just take your time and give yourself enough room to lay out the parts as you go. Good luck!

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

I ordered the part based on the parts list provided. The part arrived by mail 2 days after I submitted my order by email. True to the word in their website, they mailed the item the same day I placed the order.

It took approximately 20 minutes to remove the damaged hinge and replace the new one. No problems at all and I was extremely pleased with the rapid arrival of my order. I had studied the door and the hinge placement in advance and knew exactly what was needed. The only tool I used was a screwdriver. I removed the plate on the side of the door...lifted out the damaged hinge...replaced it with the new hinge...replaced the plate covering the hinge parts and replaced the door on the oven. An easy fix....

Removed old element and plugged in new. Very simple.

Flip up top, remove wires and two screws. Replace in opposite way. Turn off power to stove first.

1. Cut Power
2. Remove knobs
3. Remove 4 large hex nut with 1-1/8" socket
4. Rotate panel on to stove top (place a towel first) . Watch for top seal (at the top of the panel). This needs to be put back in place (easy).
5. Remove nut on switch holding the module (my was broken)
5. Remove 6 inner panel screws (philips)
6 Guide broke switch module clear of inner panel
7. Swap wires and connectors.
8. Place new module into postion tighten nut while supporting module (hand tight then another flat. I used a socket so the switch stem could protrude, and a pair of channel locks)
9. Re-assemble, making sure to position the top seal correctly.
10. Power-up & check out.

The apppliance store wanted over $150 to install it. But I could do it myself.

Some confusion on which part to order as the diagrams for the potentiometers show 3/1 configuration and indicated the front right potentiometer being different. My unit has 2/2 configuration (Front 2 large, Back 2 small) all dual-element. The diagram points to the front left as being different.

Even the local appliance store wasn't sure which to order and had to send a fax to find out (which came back talking about a 3/1 configuration).

I ordered the right front because I assumed it was for the higher wattage. I got the box and it was stamped "left front". Double check the boards and both looked identical

The whole process went smooth, part came in a couple of days after ordering.

Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...

I removed the door with instructions from the owners manual, printed out the door parts diagram from your web site to determine how to take door apart to replace old hinges with the new ones, what took long was cleaning the door glass surfaces while I had the door apart being carful not to break the glass, do not use a green pad to clean the dirty film from cooking on the glass surfaces I did and it left scratches on the glass. I used alot of common sense and reversed the takeing the door apart process to put is back together.

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.

Removed electrical connector and two screws. Attached the electrical connector to the new probe and attached with the two screws.

Removed two screws holding broiler element. Released two spring hangers on near the front of the element. Pulled element away from oven and pulled two wire connectors off. Simply reverse process to install new one. Wasn't the problem.

Self easy

PS Great service Super FAST.
Thanks Jesse