EW30GS80RSA Electrolux Range - Instructions

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.

Have a double wall oven and the top oven would not shut off or broiler part would stay on and burn tops of food. Since bottom oven was not having any issues felt like it could
Not be control panel so decided to try the temp sensor. Since replacing oven has worked properly.

Worst part was cleaning my disgusting stove, installation was easy, remember the positioning of the wires from defective module(take picture)

Installation of the temparature sensor, one of the technician recommended parts took no time, just two screws and a snap off/snap on part. It did not fix the problem. I then replaced the main control panel, which requires more work, but didn't solce the ussue either. I then replaced the thermal fuse, which wasn't mentioned by tech support, and required much more disassebly of the top panels of the stove, with still no fix to the problem. I am waiting to replace the thermostat heat sensor unit, the only other part in the circuit controlling power supply, requiring removal of the stove top again,

Removed the door from range. Laid it flat on a work surface and installed screws, by hand , carefully

It went really well until test when the flame was reaching up into the oven itself, not good. Much research finally found an older repairman who informed me the nozzle that injects the gas into the oven burner had to be fully screwed down for LP Gas. The unit is pre-set for Natural Gas. Tightened it all the way down and everything works just fine. We live rurally so use Liquid Propane Gas, not Natural Gas.

Slide Range away from wall, unplug Range, remove rear cover (4) screws, removed burner assembly (5) screws, unplugged Igniter connector, loosen Igniter bracket, remove Igniter (2) screws. Reverse process to install new Igniter. I also wore latex gloves to prevent touching graphite portion of Igniter. Tested Broiler for operation, slid Range back into position. All good.

New part needed to be spliced to old connector with porcelain wire nuts then removed lower oven drawer to access the connection for igniter

on the back side of the wall oven the sensor wire was ziptied tight. we had to totally pull oven out of its wall space, remove back panel, unhook zip tie, feed through sensor hole around insulation, connect and then replace back and return and relevel the oven. I have

I removed the defective knob (which was easy to do, because it was not seated....just sitting on the metal head, but disconnected). I lined up the new knob and pushed down gently.

I turned the knob and the burner lit the way it was supposed to!