CEI30EF5GSG Electrolux Range - Instructions

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

First we removed two screws under the rim of the range top to open the lid. Lifted the lid and removed the screws from the bracket that holds the elements, Be careful with the clips that hold the element in, if you break them or bend them there aren't any more! Also note which holes they were in, they are marked according to the different sizes of elements. Disconnected the wires, needed needlenose pliers to grip them...connected new element, popped it back in place, replaced bracket, closed top ...Easy peasy!!!

I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).

Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet metal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.

Replaced the probe because that's what this site recommended.The oven still does not heat up.

I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.

took off back cover and unplugged old unit and installed new unit. oven probe was not the issue. probally control panel malfunction of readings. will continue using oven temperatue gauge inside to get settings for temperture as temp is important for baking.

Turned off electric,removed rear panel and replaced part.oven is now operating good as new.

Unplug the unit or turn off power at the electrical panel!!!! I removed the 2 screws that hold the top surface of the stove down. On my range, these are located in the front, under the the top surface. You have to open the oven door to remove them. I propped the top up with a couple of 10 inch pieces of 1 x 2 then removed the screws on each end of the bracket that holds the elements in place. I used a 1/4 inch nut driver for these. With needle nose pliers, I removed the 3 retaining clips from the bracket and removed them from the element with a screwdriver and transferred them to the new heating element. The holes around the outside of the element are numbered so it's easy to know where they go. Laying the new element next to the old one, I moved each paddle-type electrical connection one at a time to the corresponding place on the new one. Put the retaining clips back in the slots. Screw the mounting bracket back in. Put the top down and secure it with screws. Very easy repair.

Remove 4 screws on back panel. Unclip wire connector and remove probe and install new probe.

I opened the door of the gas range and slid the rack in. No one can do this! I am amazing.

move the range out and unplug power supply, removing the back cover allows access to the probe, this can be done with screw driver or nut driver, loosen clamp that holds power cord in place and move backing out of the way, be careful sheet metal can be sharp, locate the probe unplug the connector and remove screw holding probe, pull old probe out install new probe, fasten down and plug in connector. attach backing and tighten clamp on power cord, plug in to power supply, turn on oven and give it several minutes for probe to work, it took only 20 minutes to replace the bad probe and the oven works like new hop this helps

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.

I looked up the problem on YouTube and it said it was the oven temperature probe was going out. So I ordered the probe and it was shipped out, received within two days. Took out a few screws on the back of the stove installed it, put it all back together and it’s working perfect.

removed the old burner and put the new one in it's place.

First had to determine what was the source of the problem. Removed the back panel to expose the heating element connections. Cycled thru the different oven settings; bake, convection bake, roast. convection roast and broil, while checking the voltage on the 3 heating elements; upper, convection and lower elements. As the oven cycled thru the different temperature settings the volt meter showed that the lower element would not shut down when set temperature was met. Checking the wiring diagram showed that the culprit was probably that the lower element relay in the relay panel was not cycling as required. Decided that replacing the relay panel would fix the problem, and it did. Replacement of the relay panel was very easy and the PartsSelect part was the exact part required.