MRMF2200KM2 Electrolux Range - Instructions

Replaced clock control by removing surface burner control knobs and plastic nuts, and then the cover over the oven control. Two screw hold the clock in place, after removal and disconnecting the plug-in you can reinstall the new clock control. The Heat Sensor inside the oven will also need to be replaced. It is located inside the oven and attached with two screws; the back of the oven will need to be removed to unplug. Reverse removal procedure and turn the power back on to the stove.

I pulled my unit out of the wall and noticed that the insulation around the top broiler element was a bit brown. Closer inspection revealed that the element had shorted somehow to the oven itself and caused the element to become non-functional. I tried measuring the resistance first, and it was within typical values for the other elements, but I decided to replace the element anyway.

I ordered from PD and the part arrived just a few days letter by regular shipping. I undid the screws holding in the element, undid the wire connectors and replaced the broken element with the new one. The element worked like a charm and I was back in business for cooking.

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

I followed the directions by clipping wires to old burner socket, splicing the wires to new terminal block, screwing down new "block bracket," and plugging in new burner.

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

When we bought our home less than a year ago, we had three functional burners on our 40" wide 50's classic Kelvinator (not close to standard size these-a-days). After a few months of use, two more burners went out for good and we were stuck using the back left burner for all of our cooking. I opted for the premium burners and made sure to compare my terminals with the ones online to be sure they mounted the same. I removed the burners and terminals, clipped the wires going into the terminals, and removed the top of the stove. I followed the directions that came with the new terminals, pushed in the new burners and viola! All four burners now work. I gave the stove a general cleaning and now my 1954 Kelvinator looks and cooks like it is brand new. It was easily the best $109 I've spent on my home.

was more of a job of splicing wires together than anything else. Loved the heat shrink electrical tubing
to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair
dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff

This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.

removed old terminal block . cut wires and spliced new terminal block and insulated with shrink wrap. Very eazy

Removed two screws holding broiler element. Released two spring hangers on near the front of the element. Pulled element away from oven and pulled two wire connectors off. Simply reverse process to install new one. Wasn't the problem.

Removed electrical connector and two screws. Attached the electrical connector to the new probe and attached with the two screws.

removed element , cut wires, conected wires,replaced element

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

I removed the sensor from inside the oven with a 1/4” nut driver, pulled the sensor out slowly and then took the connection apart and found out that the connector was different, I cut the connector off of the oven side and then cut the connector off of the new sensor and wired it together. I am still trying to find the ceramic nuts. My oven is working for now. Very easy fix, just wish there were ceramic wire nuts with the new sensor

bought drip bowl from big box store and the 8 inch did not fit . yours fit perfect will use you for future diy jobs thank you