CE35400ACV Crosley Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Heather from Huntsville, AL
- Parts Used:
- WP74010750
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The element broke in two pieces after food dried on it.
First, I unplugged the oven. Then, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. After that, I gently pulled the element toward the front of the oven until the wires were exposed. I disconnected the wires from the old element, removed the old element and then attached the wires to the new baking element. I gently pushed the new element back into the screw holes and screwed the new element in place. When I plugged the oven back into the wall I heard a pop and thought I'd blown up the oven! Turns out the breaker popped...after fixing the breaker, I turned the oven on and the element worked just fine. I highly recommend PartSelect.com for their fast shipping and great products. I will be ordering from them again for future appliance parts.
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- Customer:
- David from Westford, MA
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
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- Customer:
- Dennis from Hagerstown, MD
- Parts Used:
- WP7403P239-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The Burner was getting too hot and you could not regular the tempature
Moved the Appliance out unplugged it and removed the backing plate then Remove the Knob and unscrew the infinite switch then marking the 5 wires to know where the go on the new switch, removing and replaced it with the new one
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- Customer:
- charles from marstons mills, MA
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
F1-1 code
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.
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- Customer:
- alexander from Birmingham, AL
- Parts Used:
- WP74010750
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
bake element burned out.
First, I shut off power to stove(a must).
Removed two screws that hold element in place.
Gentley pulled element toward door opening.
Once wire is expose, hold back of element and pull gentley to seperate element from wire slot.
Connect new element to wire and replace screws.
Removed two screws that hold element in place.
Gentley pulled element toward door opening.
Once wire is expose, hold back of element and pull gentley to seperate element from wire slot.
Connect new element to wire and replace screws.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Decatur, GA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10245259
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Burned terminal block and filter board
Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.
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- Customer:
- David from Arlington, VA
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Repeated oven temperature sensor fault codes.
First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.
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- Customer:
- Stella from Charlotte, TN
- Parts Used:
- WP7212P043-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
worn out door seal
removed old clips and remaining parts of old seal...new part already had clips attached, so just snapped them into holes in oven door.
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- Customer:
- Bob from Saint Clair Shores, MI
- Parts Used:
- WP7801P173-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Oven rack lost in a garage fire
First I opened the door to the oven. Then I opened the box that the part came in. (knife) I then slid the oven rack out of the box and unwrapped the plastic, being careful not to bend or scratch the new rack. Now, this is the tricky part... I had to move the existing rack down one space to make room for the new one. Then carefully slid the new rack in, tipping it slightly and sliding it in. LOL
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- Customer:
- James from Chesapeake, VA
- Parts Used:
- WP7730P011-60, WP7403P239-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
could not control burner temp.
removed back cover
removed wires
removed two screws and removed switch
replaced switch and two screws
replaced wires and back cover
removed wires
removed two screws and removed switch
replaced switch and two screws
replaced wires and back cover
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- Customer:
- Claudine from Bethlehem, PA
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven wouldn't heat the right temperature (you would have to add 100 degrees on to it)
Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.
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- Customer:
- Edward from Juliustown, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Built in oven would shut down: fault code F-4
A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.
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- Customer:
- Mary from Boone, NC
- Parts Used:
- WP74010750
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Element burned through due to something dripping on it & burning.
I looked at the other repair stories on this site & realized it should be simple to do. I first switched off the power at the circuit breaker (range has its own switch). Then used a philips head screw driver to remove the 2 screws that hold the element in place at the back of the oven. Gently pulled the element out. Was able to disconnect the wire on the right side. But the other one would not budge. Thought I would have to get a repair guy out after all. Decided to try again again next day. Put on a pair of leather gloves to get a better grip on the wire (thought pliers might bend the connectors). Was able to wiggle it back & forth & it came loose. Then it was easy to hook up the new one, gently pushing the element connectors into the oven wires & put it back into the oven & replaced the 2 screws holding the element in place. Switched the circuit breaker back on. Turned on the oven and it works like new and no repair person visit!! Thanks for the info at this site.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Clarksville, MD
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Oven failed to maintain the set temperature.
Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from Great Falls, VA
- Parts Used:
- WP74007474
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Range element receptacle had shorted out
(1) Disassembled range element cartridge unit by removing six machine screws on sides
(2) Removed old element receptacle assembly (note screww attaching the clip to ring was corroded and had to be drilled out and replaced - screw not included), retaining existing element (determined it was good)
(3) Fited up new element receptacle assembly and determined how far the new wires would go, cut the old wires at appropriate point (allowing for wire splice).
(4) Attached new element receptacle assembly using a machine screw I found in my collection
(5) Routed new wires though retaining clips, and spliced into old wires near the cartridge plug (note: be sure to use high temp splice nuts - not supplied in kit)
(6) Installed old element into new receptacle and tested by measuring resistance - element resistance should be about 12 ohms, with all connections to ground reading infinity)
(7) Reassembled cartrige assembly using six machine screws previously removed (note, make sure the part align properly - top inside the bottom)
(8) Put the assembly back on range - worked great!
(2) Removed old element receptacle assembly (note screww attaching the clip to ring was corroded and had to be drilled out and replaced - screw not included), retaining existing element (determined it was good)
(3) Fited up new element receptacle assembly and determined how far the new wires would go, cut the old wires at appropriate point (allowing for wire splice).
(4) Attached new element receptacle assembly using a machine screw I found in my collection
(5) Routed new wires though retaining clips, and spliced into old wires near the cartridge plug (note: be sure to use high temp splice nuts - not supplied in kit)
(6) Installed old element into new receptacle and tested by measuring resistance - element resistance should be about 12 ohms, with all connections to ground reading infinity)
(7) Reassembled cartrige assembly using six machine screws previously removed (note, make sure the part align properly - top inside the bottom)
(8) Put the assembly back on range - worked great!
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