Models > EHF30002L

EHF30002L (P1130943NL) Caloric Range

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Diagrams for EHF30002L

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This chrome drip bowl is an OEM approved replacement part sourced directly from the manufacturer. Drip bowls are a part for your cooktop, positioned underneath the burner to catch spills. This drip bo...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement part. This surface burner plug-in block kit is designed for use with surface elements of your ranges and cooktops. This kit helps connect the wire harness to the surf...
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This element has looped terminal ends and 5-turns. This element features pigtail, looped ends. This element is 8" in diameter. This element is 2100 watts. This element coil has 5 turns. This surface e...
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Please note: This is a substitute from the original part. It may physically look different, but will still function the same. This bake element is found on the bottom of the oven.
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It provides a way of connecting individual electrical wires and offers protection of the device from electrical surges (voltages and/or currents).
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The top of this part is now black.
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This is an authentic OEM replacement part. This wire oven rack is used un ranges, microwave oven combs, and wall ovens. This wire rack is made of metal, and it is chrome in color. It is approximately ...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement part. This surface element is commonly used on ranges and cooktops. This is a six inch and four turn electric surface heating element. This element is what heats the ...
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This is an authentic OEM replacement part. This broil element is designed for use with ranges. It is found on the roof of your oven and provides the heat needed for the broil function. If the element ...
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This screw is sold individually.
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$9.56
Part may differ in appearance, but functions same as original.
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This OEM replacement part has been sourced from the manufacturer.?This hinge kit is designed for use with ranges and wall ovens. The hinges allow you to easily open and close the door on your applianc...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for EHF30002L

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Fixing
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Door won’t close
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Oven not heating evenly
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Touchpad does not respond
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Timothy from Salem, OR
Parts Used:
WP77001094
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers
The Baking element in the bottom of the stove apparently shorted out and partially melted
First I turned off the circuit breaker on the house electricity panel. I removed the two screws that held the element in place in the oven. There were two wires connected to the element by spade plugs that were free floating in a fiberglass pad. I reconnected the spade plugs and put the element back in place and put back in the two sc rews. This procedure had I known what I was doing could have been done with the stove in place and would take no more than 5 to 10 minutes. Having no experience at this, I had pulled the stove out into the room and also removed the back cover which turned out to be unnecessary. I put everything back in place and held my breath and turned on the circuit breaker. Voila! It worked!
58 of 60 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Joseph from Decatur, GA
Parts Used:
WPW10245259
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Burned terminal block and filter board
Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.
90 of 192 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Phillip from Pekin, IL
Parts Used:
330031
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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