HGI8054UC (06) Bosch Range - Instructions
Jump to:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Jeffrey from Bloomington, MN
- Parts Used:
- 00755058
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Igniter replacement
Getting to the igniter is trivial, only requiring the removal of the stove bottom (two set screws) and a heat shield (the heat shield is held in place by screws with size 20 star-driver heads). At this point a splice could be made to the original wires, IF ceramic wire nuts were included with the replacement igniter (but, alas, they are not). IF a splice were made the repair would be a very easy, 10-minute job.
To replace the igniter then requires the complete removal of the back of the range (17, size 20 star-driver, screws, if I remember correctly), plus the removal of an additional heat shield (one more screw). Then one must carefully lift and free the back from tabs on both sides that are set into slots. (Oh, and you probably want to loosen the electrical cord shield that interferes with the back coming off.) The new igniter wire plug is only then very easily re-attached to existing harness. Everything is then replaced to finish the repair.
None of this is difficult, if you don't mind moving your range away from the wall and dealing with on the order of 20 screws. Personally, I think I would have rather found an igniter with ceramic wire nuts to splice to the original wires (certainly not as elegant as replacing igniter and wires entirely, but far quicker and easier).
To replace the igniter then requires the complete removal of the back of the range (17, size 20 star-driver, screws, if I remember correctly), plus the removal of an additional heat shield (one more screw). Then one must carefully lift and free the back from tabs on both sides that are set into slots. (Oh, and you probably want to loosen the electrical cord shield that interferes with the back coming off.) The new igniter wire plug is only then very easily re-attached to existing harness. Everything is then replaced to finish the repair.
None of this is difficult, if you don't mind moving your range away from the wall and dealing with on the order of 20 screws. Personally, I think I would have rather found an igniter with ceramic wire nuts to splice to the original wires (certainly not as elegant as replacing igniter and wires entirely, but far quicker and easier).
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Ruben from STAR, ID
- Parts Used:
- 12012946
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
Standoffs were not provided. The current standoffs needed to be remove and placed on the new board. (Not easy)
One the standoffs were removed they needed to be trimmed to attach to the new board. Took longer to do this than remove and replace board.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Control panel would randomly flicker, fade to black or become non-responsive when subjected to the heat/steam of the open range.
Watch the YouTube video.
Turn off power or unplug the range.
Remove 5 gas control knobs.
Remove four T20 screws on Control panel. one on each end, L and R, two underneath, L and R.
Pull off control panel and carefully flip it up onto the range, being careful not to stretch the wiring harness.
Carefully remove two wiring connectors (pinch and pull method)
Remove four T20 screws securing the Control panel mount then turn it over 180 degrees.
Straighten the mounting tabs until the control panel easily slides off of its mount.
Remove and replace the control panel and sheet.
Reverse the procedure to reinstall.
It took me longer to clean the components and the area that to repair the problem.
Tip: Isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle and a cloth cuts the grease and grime, if needed, with very little effort and no scratching.
Turn off power or unplug the range.
Remove 5 gas control knobs.
Remove four T20 screws on Control panel. one on each end, L and R, two underneath, L and R.
Pull off control panel and carefully flip it up onto the range, being careful not to stretch the wiring harness.
Carefully remove two wiring connectors (pinch and pull method)
Remove four T20 screws securing the Control panel mount then turn it over 180 degrees.
Straighten the mounting tabs until the control panel easily slides off of its mount.
Remove and replace the control panel and sheet.
Reverse the procedure to reinstall.
It took me longer to clean the components and the area that to repair the problem.
Tip: Isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle and a cloth cuts the grease and grime, if needed, with very little effort and no scratching.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Barry from MONROE, NY
- Parts Used:
- 00630873
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven was not heating properly
Took the one out of the box and take off the back plate and detach the sensor
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Michael from DES MOINES, WA
- Parts Used:
- 00771361
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
broken glass/door won't stay closed
installed new front glass panel.
installed thin magnetic catches on each side of door
installed thin magnetic catches on each side of door
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!