AKT3650SS-10 Amana Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Mark from Loxahatchee, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Right rear burner went bad
Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get you for a trip charge. It was easy!!
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- Customer:
- Michael from Collierville, TN
- Parts Used:
- 12002125
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
Outer element of dual element burner didn't work
Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck
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- Customer:
- Gregory from Cary, NC
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Hot Burner Light always on
Thermal switch is integral to element and can not be changed, must replace entire element.
Turn off power. Removed front two screws above oven door jamb and lifted the top. Removed the bracket that holds the element against the glass top and removed the element. Moved brackets from old element to new one, aligning to same numerical position and then moved wiring to new element. Slide new element under bracket and reinstalled single screw. Replaced top and screwed down. Turn on power and test .
Turn off power. Removed front two screws above oven door jamb and lifted the top. Removed the bracket that holds the element against the glass top and removed the element. Moved brackets from old element to new one, aligning to same numerical position and then moved wiring to new element. Slide new element under bracket and reinstalled single screw. Replaced top and screwed down. Turn on power and test .
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- Customer:
- Igor from Campbell, CA
- Parts Used:
- 12002125
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.
The end result (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label
1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1)
2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire)
3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2)
4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element)
5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element)
6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light)
7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.
Done.
To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.
The end result (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label
1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1)
2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire)
3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2)
4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element)
5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element)
6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light)
7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.
Done.
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- Customer:
- Mark from mckinney, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
glass cooktop element stopped working
3 months after my 5 year warranty ran out, one of the elements on my wife's maytag cooktop "popped". I was curious to see if I could fix it myself and ran across partselect.com via google. Their step by step instructions for determining the source of the problem (i.e. either the element or the control was bad) led me to realize that the element was bad. I ordered a new one -- which arrived in 3 days! It was very easy to replace the element, since I had already taken the glass cooktop off of the range during the testing phase. Thanks partselect.com!
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Steinhatchee, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
right rear burner was inop for last 4 years
1. tripped circuit breaker for stovetop
2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet.
3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface.
4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached.
5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity.
6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side.
7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together.
8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.
Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150.
Tom in Steinhatchee
2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet.
3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface.
4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached.
5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity.
6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side.
7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together.
8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.
Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150.
Tom in Steinhatchee
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- Customer:
- Gary from Stockton, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Glass top electric range element not working
Turned off the power . Removed two screws in front, lifted top, used a piece of wood to hold up,took off wires to bad element removed old element, replaced with the new one, put wires back on ,closed top,screws to front,on with power and cooked dinner!
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- Customer:
- Todd from Concord, OH
- Parts Used:
- 12002125
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Jenn Air Dual element switch broke
This is not at hard as it seems; I followed the first guy's story and ignored the colors because mine were different. I did have to split the combined red wires, intimidating at first but once I split them it was down hill.
I did have to use the jumper wire.
Follow
Appliance Repaired: Jenn-Air Range/Stove/Oven/Hood
Model: cve3401b
Age Of Appliance: 5 - 10 years
Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the wire from old switch terminal 5)to S2
Attach the wire from old switch terminal 4 to 4a
Attach the wire from old switch terminal 3 to terminal 4 on the new switch
Detach the 'compound' red wires from each other.
(The ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
I attached common female connectors.
Attach the newly split single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
One note:
Before you remove the four screws that hold the four swtiches down make sure that you use a sharpie and mark the switchbox location. You will notice that it is difficult to get them to line up again with the holes in the cooktop.
Thanks partselect.com!
I did have to use the jumper wire.
Follow
Appliance Repaired: Jenn-Air Range/Stove/Oven/Hood
Model: cve3401b
Age Of Appliance: 5 - 10 years
Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the wire from old switch terminal 5)to S2
Attach the wire from old switch terminal 4 to 4a
Attach the wire from old switch terminal 3 to terminal 4 on the new switch
Detach the 'compound' red wires from each other.
(The ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
I attached common female connectors.
Attach the newly split single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
One note:
Before you remove the four screws that hold the four swtiches down make sure that you use a sharpie and mark the switchbox location. You will notice that it is difficult to get them to line up again with the holes in the cooktop.
Thanks partselect.com!
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- Customer:
- James from Peachtree City, GA
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Back heating element stopped working
I had some confusion about the correct series number associated with my stove and called Partselect. They confirmed the part I was looking at was correct in less than 5 minutes. I then completed the order online. Even with standard shipping my order was processed immediately and I received the heating element the next day.
Turned off the breaker. Removed the two screws in the front holding the range top down. Loosened the screws holding the element in place while balancing the range top with my shoulder. Removed the wires from the older element one at a time and attached them to the new element. Put the new element in place and screwed back in place. If I had a little help with the range top I think I could have completed it in 5 minutes but I was at home alone and the other stories of doing this repair made it seem easy enough and it was.
Turned off the breaker. Removed the two screws in the front holding the range top down. Loosened the screws holding the element in place while balancing the range top with my shoulder. Removed the wires from the older element one at a time and attached them to the new element. Put the new element in place and screwed back in place. If I had a little help with the range top I think I could have completed it in 5 minutes but I was at home alone and the other stories of doing this repair made it seem easy enough and it was.
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- Customer:
- Buford from Sun City Center, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Element Burned out
looked for how to video on you tube. It saved me lots of money. Anyone could do it.
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- Customer:
- Howard from Citrus Springs, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
I turned off the range breaker and doubled checked to make sure the power was off . Using 1/4" ratchet wrench I removed 2 sheet metal screws and lifted the glass top up and held it in up with a small cardboard bow. I removed 2 more screws holding the element in place and installed new unit. I then
See description listed as problem
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- Customer:
- John from Clermont, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Burnt out burner
Had this range for 6 years. My daughter turned on the burner and it went "pop". She was very upset. I found the best price at PartSelect, and ordered the same day.
the first burner arrived broken in the box. We contacted PartSelect, and they immediately sent another and rushed shipping. It arrived in excellent condition.
To replace the unit: First, I turned off the circuit breaker for the range. Then I removed the two Philips screws that held the cooktop down. Next I removed the nut screws holding the burner to the cooktop.
Then I placed the new burner next to the old one, and one by one swapped the wires (this way I was sure I had the right wire on the right connector). One of the wire connectors broke when removing it from the old burner. PartSelect had provided 4 repacement connector pieces (oddly, all of which were too small for the burner element). So I located a replacement connector at a local hardware store. Stripped the end of the wire and used pliers to fasten the new connector.
After all connectors were secured to the new burner, I screwed the burner to the cooktop, then closed the cooktop and secured it with the two screws.
Turned on the circuit breaker, and it works like new! Saved over $100 by doing it myself!
the first burner arrived broken in the box. We contacted PartSelect, and they immediately sent another and rushed shipping. It arrived in excellent condition.
To replace the unit: First, I turned off the circuit breaker for the range. Then I removed the two Philips screws that held the cooktop down. Next I removed the nut screws holding the burner to the cooktop.
Then I placed the new burner next to the old one, and one by one swapped the wires (this way I was sure I had the right wire on the right connector). One of the wire connectors broke when removing it from the old burner. PartSelect had provided 4 repacement connector pieces (oddly, all of which were too small for the burner element). So I located a replacement connector at a local hardware store. Stripped the end of the wire and used pliers to fasten the new connector.
After all connectors were secured to the new burner, I screwed the burner to the cooktop, then closed the cooktop and secured it with the two screws.
Turned on the circuit breaker, and it works like new! Saved over $100 by doing it myself!
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- Customer:
- Ronald from Beavercreek, OH
- Parts Used:
- 12002125
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dual Infinite Switch shorted out due to boil over on the cooktop.
I turned off the circuit breaker to the cooktop. I had to remove aluminum tape from the downdraft fan so it would disconnect from the exhaust duct. I noticed that I had a long enough electrical connection so I could just lift the cooktop up out of the opening and support it at the corners with shims. I removed all the knobs from the cooktop and then removed the 1/4" sheet metal screws that held the ceramic top to the base. My cooktop had a downdraft fan in the center which has 2 phillips head screws that at first I didn't see, but once I removed those, the ceramic top came off and exposed all the inner workings. I removed the 2 phillips screws holding the switch and then swapped each wire from the old switch to the new one. After that, it was just a matter of reversing the process to get everything back in working order.
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- Customer:
- RICHARD from PARADISE, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP74011243
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Small burner full hot all the time.
TURNED OFF POWER TO STOVE Removed 5 Knobs, 2 screws that held bad switch.
Removed 4 screws and lifted panel up and forward to expose switches. Adjusted spring tension on knob stem to hold knob ( stem in new switch slightly smaller) removed wire from defective switch one at a time and fastened to new switch in sequence. Reassembled and turned power on. Defective switch had stuck contacts making it full hot.
Removed 4 screws and lifted panel up and forward to expose switches. Adjusted spring tension on knob stem to hold knob ( stem in new switch slightly smaller) removed wire from defective switch one at a time and fastened to new switch in sequence. Reassembled and turned power on. Defective switch had stuck contacts making it full hot.
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- Customer:
- Michael from West Hartford, AL
- Parts Used:
- 12002125
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
burner/s could only be on off or high, nothing in between
First, disconnected downdraft fan from ductwork below stovetop. Pushing from below, was able to lift entire stovetop assembly up to expose nuts holding glass top to the underlying burner assembly. used 2 lengths of 2x4's under the whole stovetop assembly to hold it up while I worked. Unscrewed all hex nuts and 2 screws at top of downdraft opening and easily lifted glass top off, exposing elements below. Removed a few screws holding defective switch in place. I then moved one wire at a time from the old switch to the new switch. I actually followed directions of another partsect customer. His step by step directions for the wiring was invaluable. Worked perfectly. My wife and daughter are very impressed.
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