ARG7102C-P1143389NC Amana Range - Instructions

After shutting off the gas and removing the oven door, which simply slid off of the hinges, I removed the oven plate. The ignitor was attached to the manifold. I removed that and noted the wires were attached back behind a hole in the back of the oven. I thought I would have to access them from the back but when I pulled on them I was able to reach them from the front. I was surprised to find plastic lugs covering the wire ends, rather than ceramic. I attached the new ignitor wires and reused the plastic lugs, as no ceramic ones came with the new ignitor. I carefully slid the new ignitor back into the cage/shield attached to the manifold and replaced the manifold. I then turned the gas back on and tested the ignitor (which worked perfectly) before replacing the oven plate. The repair took less than 30 minutes, but my wife and I thoroughly cleaned the door and interior while we had it apart. The hardest part was getting the door back on the hinges, but this too was accomplished after several attempts. The oven heats up beautifully now.

Checked lower oven burner for a problem. Oven Ignitor looked like it was glowing and working properly but the gas valve would not open to let the gas flow to burner. I had read on a forum that just because the oven ignitor looks good does not mean it is creating the proper resistance to open the gas valve. So I took my chances and replaced the ignitor (because it was cheaper than the gas valve) and now the oven works like new.

I removed the cover over the flame diffuser, then removed the single nut holding the diffuser to the burner assembly. After removing the three screws from the igniter assembly I found I couldn't reach the connector for the igniter.
I removed the storage tray underneath and found a cover towards the rear of the oven with two screws. After removing this piece I could easily disconnect the igniter. It was a bit difficult replacing this shield as it had to fit between two other pieces on the side towards the front of the oven.
I slid the guard from the old igniter and put it on the new piece and just reversed the procedure. Relatively easy and saved me a bundle!

Broiler Igniter:

Disconnected stove from electricity

Removed the two screws that hold the broiler igniter assembly

Pulled asembly out to expose ceramic wire nuts

Removed ceramic wire nuts and save them

Removed broiler igniter assembly (broiler igniter & brolier mounting bracket are assembled together)

Loosened screws/nuts that hold the broiler igniter to the brolier mounting bracket

Remove old broiler igniter

Carefully inserted new brolier igniter into the broiler igniter bracket

Place the brolier igniter bracket into position. Make sure you look at the diagram provided so the position is correct. There is a "up" & "down" side to the broiler igniter

Tightened screws & bolts on broiler igniter bracket

Reconnected the ceramic wire nuts

Inserted two mounting screws and tightened

Finished.

Oven Igniter:

Removed oven door

Removed bottom oven drawer

Removed nut that holds heat shield/disperser in place

Removedheat shield/disperser

Removed all oven tray screws

removed oven burner

disconnected oven igniter

disconneted oven igniter assembly

inserted new oven igniter

reassembled

I opened the oven and cleared the racks;
removed the cover of the oven heating area;
took off the nut holding the blast shield on;
removed all the screws holding the drip tray on;
some were quite rusty and fell out in my hand;
removed the 2 screws holding the igniter in;
and the one scew that allows adjustment;
pulled out the igniter and noticed the old one was connected with wire nuts while the new one had a module plug;
cut off the module plug and stripped back the wires;
applied the wire nuts;
stuck the wires back in tjhe hole and screwed it all back together-done,
I must say the best part of the repair was googling the problem "amana oven ignition troubleshooting" and getting a helpful discussion of the problem and a solution and a link to the parts suply house, It couldn't have been simpler. I got the part 2 days after ordering it online.

After the appliance store told me that the repair would cost about $500 to fix an oven that wouldn't light we didn't have the money to repair it or buy a new one so we went without an oven (only the oven) for almost 1 year. The igniter would glow but the oven would not light. my son found your site online and passed it on to me. It was so simple it's almost funny. I opened the oven door and removed the burner cover. Then reached in and removed the three screws that held the igniter in place. Turned off the gas, disconedted it so I could pull the stove out to get behind it. Found the wires to the igniter and undid the 2 wire nuts. Removed the igniter cover from the old one and slid it onto the new one. Be very careful because the igniter is very delicate and be sure to not toucjh the heating eliment. Slid the new part into place, reinstalled the screws, connected the new wires with the old wire nuts, reconnected the gas and turned on the oven. BAM it worked like a charm.

First we removed the oven doors. Then removed the shelf that separates the oven from the broiler, giving us more room to work. At first we thought we needed to loosen the screws around the bracket holding the ignitor, but we realized that the burner needed to be removed. Lifting the burner up from the front gave us the room to pull it gently from the back of the oven wall, giving more room to pull the wires connected to the ignitor from the back of the oven wall out and then disconnecting them. Then carefully pulling the ignitor out of the bracket.

Putting the new ignitor in was easy. Carefully sliding it into the bracket, not touching the ceramic piece, connected the electric wires, pushed the wires back into the hole in the back of the oven. Then placing the burner back into place.

We then turned on the gas and the electricity and the ignitor glowed and the burner lit. PERFECT! In the past we've had a repair man come in and this time we saved $100. Even more perfect.

Bought new igniter based on advice from other stories here. Didn't test the impedance. The igniter glowed, but the oven wouldn't start.

1. Removed single nut on flame pan & remove pan.
2. Removed Pan drawer and disconnected plug to igniter.
3. Removed 3 screws holding igniter in place.

Note: the screws were corroded & one stripped in removal - you may want to purchase the metal housing for the igniter assuming it comes with new screws.

4. Put everthing back in opposite order.

Get to the ignitor:
Open oven, clean out the crude, and remove the bottom pan to get to the gas parts.
Remove the nut to get the flame sheild off.
Remove screws that hold the ignitor.
I stripped one and had to pry it off with a strait slot screw driver while turning it with a phillips.

Unplugging the ignitor:
Pull out the drawer. Removed the 2 panels under the stove to access the ignitor plug.
Replace the ignitor and reverse the procedure.

I did remove about 20 screws and the main pan at the bottom of the inside of the oven, but it didn't help me do anything, so don't make the mistake that i made with that.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Regarding my right side oven door hinge replacement, P/N PS2172201

After reading that other people had trouble threading the screws into the new hinge, I looked at the drilled mounting holes in the new hinge. Neither hole was threaded. The smaller hole used a self tapping sheet metal screw which works fine. The larger hole gets a machine screw and will not self tap. Since the instructions say put the screw in "once" to tap the holes before installing the hinge, I tried this. It doesn't work, regardless of what the instructions say. The larger hole should come from the manufacture threaded. I do have a tap and die set so I tapped the hole myself. After that, the installation is a 5 min. ordeal.

Take the two screws, one on each side, out that hold the oven door on the hinges. The door will then pull straight off the hinges. Take the storage drawer below the oven out. Unscrew the top and bottom hinge screws and pull the old hinge out from inside at the bottom. Put the new "threaded" hinge into position and hold from the bottom, inside. Screw in the two screws, large one on the top end, and put the door back on. You can open both hinges about 30 degrees to allow the door to slide back on the hinges easily. Put the last two screws in that hold the door to the hinges and you are done.

Really very easy and saved several hundred dollars in repair bills. I might add that my hinge arrived on time 3 or 4 days after the order was placed.

Unplug oven cord from wall receptical,
Remove bottom drawer from oven,
Remove sheet metal plate from rear of oven to gain access to the ignighter connection,
Disconnect old ignighter connection,
Removed the pan on the bottom of the inside of the oven,
Removed the hex nut on the top of baffle plate
Remove baffle plate,
Remove (2) screws holding ignighter in place,
Replace the ignighter and all other commponnents in reverse order

I removed the back of the control panel and the disconnected the control circuit board. There wires and one plug and the new board was in. The most difficult part was removing the stick on display label without tearing it. In 20 minutes we used it for dinner. Parts came very quickly and the repair was simple. Thanks

i disconnected the power supply, took all shelves out of oven, removed screw that holds the bunner to oven, removed bunner along with igniter. cut wires to igniter wired new igniter , tested before
installing bunner,( ok) installed bunner and screw
fired up and all is well.

was so each, we removed the door and the racks. and the bottom drawer out. All we had to do was remove the ignitor that was held in wtih screws we could read the wires from the bottom of the oven and then put the new one in and attached the wires from the bottom. We had read reviews of others that did the same repair and were confident that we could do it because they described it and said it was so easy. Thanks everyone.