AGDS902E-P1131831NE Amana Range - Instructions

After shutting off the gas and removing the oven door, which simply slid off of the hinges, I removed the oven plate. The ignitor was attached to the manifold. I removed that and noted the wires were attached back behind a hole in the back of the oven. I thought I would have to access them from the back but when I pulled on them I was able to reach them from the front. I was surprised to find plastic lugs covering the wire ends, rather than ceramic. I attached the new ignitor wires and reused the plastic lugs, as no ceramic ones came with the new ignitor. I carefully slid the new ignitor back into the cage/shield attached to the manifold and replaced the manifold. I then turned the gas back on and tested the ignitor (which worked perfectly) before replacing the oven plate. The repair took less than 30 minutes, but my wife and I thoroughly cleaned the door and interior while we had it apart. The hardest part was getting the door back on the hinges, but this too was accomplished after several attempts. The oven heats up beautifully now.

After the appliance store told me that the repair would cost about $500 to fix an oven that wouldn't light we didn't have the money to repair it or buy a new one so we went without an oven (only the oven) for almost 1 year. The igniter would glow but the oven would not light. my son found your site online and passed it on to me. It was so simple it's almost funny. I opened the oven door and removed the burner cover. Then reached in and removed the three screws that held the igniter in place. Turned off the gas, disconedted it so I could pull the stove out to get behind it. Found the wires to the igniter and undid the 2 wire nuts. Removed the igniter cover from the old one and slid it onto the new one. Be very careful because the igniter is very delicate and be sure to not toucjh the heating eliment. Slid the new part into place, reinstalled the screws, connected the new wires with the old wire nuts, reconnected the gas and turned on the oven. BAM it worked like a charm.

First we removed the oven doors. Then removed the shelf that separates the oven from the broiler, giving us more room to work. At first we thought we needed to loosen the screws around the bracket holding the ignitor, but we realized that the burner needed to be removed. Lifting the burner up from the front gave us the room to pull it gently from the back of the oven wall, giving more room to pull the wires connected to the ignitor from the back of the oven wall out and then disconnecting them. Then carefully pulling the ignitor out of the bracket.

Putting the new ignitor in was easy. Carefully sliding it into the bracket, not touching the ceramic piece, connected the electric wires, pushed the wires back into the hole in the back of the oven. Then placing the burner back into place.

We then turned on the gas and the electricity and the ignitor glowed and the burner lit. PERFECT! In the past we've had a repair man come in and this time we saved $100. Even more perfect.

No tools were needed; the old burner bowls were taken out and replaced with the new burner bowls. I would like to say the service was great from PartSelect. com. I was so happy I was able to find replacement bowls for my older drop-in range that I ordered a second set to keep for future use. PartSelect.com sent the replacement bowls quickly, and the order was processed very efficiently. Thank you!

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Regarding my right side oven door hinge replacement, P/N PS2172201

After reading that other people had trouble threading the screws into the new hinge, I looked at the drilled mounting holes in the new hinge. Neither hole was threaded. The smaller hole used a self tapping sheet metal screw which works fine. The larger hole gets a machine screw and will not self tap. Since the instructions say put the screw in "once" to tap the holes before installing the hinge, I tried this. It doesn't work, regardless of what the instructions say. The larger hole should come from the manufacture threaded. I do have a tap and die set so I tapped the hole myself. After that, the installation is a 5 min. ordeal.

Take the two screws, one on each side, out that hold the oven door on the hinges. The door will then pull straight off the hinges. Take the storage drawer below the oven out. Unscrew the top and bottom hinge screws and pull the old hinge out from inside at the bottom. Put the new "threaded" hinge into position and hold from the bottom, inside. Screw in the two screws, large one on the top end, and put the door back on. You can open both hinges about 30 degrees to allow the door to slide back on the hinges easily. Put the last two screws in that hold the door to the hinges and you are done.

Really very easy and saved several hundred dollars in repair bills. I might add that my hinge arrived on time 3 or 4 days after the order was placed.

i disconnected the power supply, took all shelves out of oven, removed screw that holds the bunner to oven, removed bunner along with igniter. cut wires to igniter wired new igniter , tested before
installing bunner,( ok) installed bunner and screw
fired up and all is well.

was so each, we removed the door and the racks. and the bottom drawer out. All we had to do was remove the ignitor that was held in wtih screws we could read the wires from the bottom of the oven and then put the new one in and attached the wires from the bottom. We had read reviews of others that did the same repair and were confident that we could do it because they described it and said it was so easy. Thanks everyone.

Removed the door and old hinges and reinstalled the new hinges and added some screws to better support the door ( it was bending a little at the middle and the door would not shut all the way. Now it works fine.

I removed the two screws and pryed out the old hinge. I then put in the new hinge. The new one fit well. I went to screw it in with the supplied screws. The screws not only did not fit the hole tapped in the hinge (too big, different tread) but both screws were different from each other. They were different sizes and different types all together. I tried re-using the screws from the originol hinge but they also did not fit. I then got my own self tapping machine screws and finished the job. This job should not have been that hard. If they had supplied the correct screws, It would have taken all of five minutes.

Had to take entire back panel off, to disconnect wiring. Once disconnected, removed two screws holding up igniter in oven. Pulled it through and removed from holder, Be careful new igniter very fragile. Reconnected, put panel back on, then turn on to verify, all went well, fully operational.

left side hinge was broken. I removed 2 screws to release the old hinge and replaced it with the new hinge.
Part select.com made it easy to pick out the part from the diagram supplied on the web site. After it was ordered it arrived 2 days later.

I took out ruined racks. Cleaned the oven, getting rid of all the melted plastic. Once oven was sparkling clean, I slid in the new racks I bought from here. (The easiest part).

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I'm very thankful to have found this site. My oven has been "out of order" for over 3 years. It's so nice to be able to use it again! =)

Repair can be done through the oven after removing the dip pan on top of the oven burner. The drip pan slids out - no tools needed. Remove 1 screw that holds the element close to the burner and 2 screws that hold the element cover to the stove. Remove bottom drawer and remove wire nuts from element wires. Reverse the process to install new element. Care must be taken to avoid damage to the element as it can be easily broken. I cut and stripped the wires coming from the stove valve as they were not in good shape after removing the wire nut.

Subject range is in a rental house and receives much use and abuse. The repair was necessary due to the door having 2, 1-2 inch cracks one on each side so the door bent outward. Obviously in the past when the oven door was completely in the open position much weight was placed on the door cracking the sides and bending the door. Consequently, when the oven was in use and the door was closed being that the door was bent outward heat escaped from the top of the door heating up the control panel. The control panel would get so hot that it could not be touched without burning the fingers. Replacing this range would cost approximately $2200, so we had to try to repair it. I went to the ParSelect website and ordered the part I needed.
Being that the oven door is heavy and large it took two people to disassemble and reassemble the door. We had quite
a wrestling match with the door (consider too, that we never do this type of job) but after about 3 hours our range was almost like new.
Disappointing that a replacement mylar cover for the control panel is no longer available at PartSelect. We would appreciate getting our hands on one as the existing mylar cover is cracked.
The oven has been successfully used since the repair and we have a good fit and the control panel is now only warm instead of blistering hot. FANTASTIC!
THANK YOU


Time will tell.

Sincerely

Craig and Judy Crouch