SBK26DA Amana Range - Instructions

Removed the broken element by taking out the two screws in the back wall of the oven and unplugging the wires. Then did reverse to install the new element. Very simple repair job.

Unplug the power cord from the unit. Remove the lower front panel; then the upper front panel including the door (unplug wire to door switch). Then remove the cover on the fan housing. Need to block the motor from turning; I used a stick to jamb the front of the motor; then unscrew the old blower fan and screw on the new one. Then replace the cover and put front panels back on.

turned off the breaker (240 volts and it was outside, so it took longer than 15 minutes). Removed two screws in the back of the oven, one on each side of the old element, and pulled the old element forward. The wires on the back add some resistance, but they are long enough to pull forward a short distance (3 inches) without damage. Unplugged the old element, plugged in the new element, pushed it into place, and reinstalled the screws. Turned the power back on and it worked! Saved some money for the holidays! DIY para vida!

Because the wheel had stopped and the shaft kept turning (junk from child's pocket got in there), the nut stripped itself away from the wheel causing low RPM and low air movement (lazy flame, vibration and clothes not drying)

I had to use a screwdriver to break the wheel away from the center nut and remove the fan. I then removed the air fan housing (3 bolt behind the fan wheel). I used a small pair of vise grips to hold the motor shaft staionary while I used a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the nut that was molded into the fan from the motor shaft. It was harder to get the nut started then I would have thought.

Once complete, I put the fan housing back on and threaded the new wheel on easily. The motor has external fins on it which turn with the shaft-I held one lightly while I threaded the fan on to keep the shaft from turning. Tighten just slightly more than hand tight-don't go crazy-it's threaded to stay tight with rotation. Works great and very quiet now.

Turned the circuit breaker off. Removed the 2 screws holding the element in place, pulled the element out far enough to access and disconnect the wires. Installed the new element by reversing the process. Success - wife is happily baking again!

Shut off wall oven circuit.Took out screws, pulled element out, disconnected oven wire terminals from old element and popped them onto new element.Pushed them back behind oven wall and put screws back.Flipped circuit back on and baked some chocolate chip muffins :) Got tired of asking Hubby to fix it.You GO Ladies! ;-)

This was amazing. First I couldn't believe I could find a part for an over that was 25 years old. Fixing it was just as easy. I read some of the other reviews and it was just as easy as they described. Unscrewed the two plates on the back of the oven, unclipped two pieces and screwed the plates back on. It took me a total of 10-15 minutes, BUT, I couldn't get the door back on. Had to impose on a neighbor to help. Ten minutes to fix the oven and three days to get the door back on! Still worth it. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU

I removed the 2 screws that held the housing on at the back of the stove. Then I removed the 2 screws that held the module to the back of the stove. Since I am not an experienced electrical person (I am a female nurse in the operating room), I unplugged 1 wire at a time from the old module and plugged it into the new module. I repeated this step with each wire to make sure I didn't put the wrong wire on a wrong spot until I had all the wires to the new module. Then reattached the screws, plugged in the oven and presto, it works just fine! Was amazed at how easy it was. A 50 dollar part instead of a new 1500 dollar stove. How easy is that?

First I disconnected the inlet hoses. After lifting up the cover the electrical wires were marked and disconnected from the old valve. Next the short hose from the old valve to the tub was removed. Then the old valve was removed from the washing machine by removal of two mounting screws. The new valve was installed in the reverse order. New hose clamps were installed on the short hose from the valve to the tub. New washers were installed on the hoses which connected to the valve. A test was made to check for any leaks.

Had to remove the 4 range knobs, and the oven knob and then the facie. Two screws under the end caps and two on each side from the back on each end. Design defect: one of these screws which attaches through the frame to the facie also attaches the support which holds up the range top. Take that one off last. Remove the two wires that attach to the oven light switch. After detaching the power supply to the defective ignition unit, it just pulls right off. Push the new switch on over the knob shaft and reassemble.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

The knobs were a perfect replacement and I just slid them onto the posts on which the old ones were on. Although my range is a Glenwood I think that the parts are now made my Whirlpool (not exactly sure) but they are a perfect match. My order came so quickly and I am thrilled with the transaction. I didn't think I would ever find the replacement knobs and thought I might have to get a new range as you could not read the oven temperatures at all on the old knobs.

Recieved the part within 24 hrs after I ordered it which was awesome.
Removed the two screws holding element in place and pulled out to remove old element. Disconnected the wires and removed element. Had to replace the wire ends with slip on ends to match new element. Spent more time at Home Depot looking for $.99 ends and a crimper than it did to do the entire replacement. Reinstalled element with no problem. Worked great.

Removed the top latches with a nut driver. Removed the washing machine top. Used a nut driver to remove the valve. Used pliers to remove and replace the outlet hose clamp. Used pliers to remove and replace inlet hoses.

I have kept this washer and dryer running for 27 years now by replacing parts. I was going to replace them this time but for a $20 part they still run ok. I bet I can use the old valve for a garden irrigation project too !

This was my first time repairing a dryer. If I knew when I started the project what I know now, it would have been an easy repair. First, you should know that the series number (used for selecting a wiring diagram) is the last two digits of the unit's serial number (not model number). In my case, the series number was 11. The hardest part for me was figuring out how to take the dryer apart. I made the mistake of starting with the top instead of the front. In fact, I removed the control panel and disconnected all the wires, labeling them carefully, and creating a diagram, so i could put it all back together later. I now realize I could have left that all together and just lifted the top up in the front without removing it. That knowledge would have saved hours of work, so I hope it helps someone (prop up the front a few inches and start by removing the panel on the lower front, then remove the screws on the main front panel, and then pull out the bottom of that panel toward you until the top of that front panel disengages from the top of the dryer - the rest is obvious). So it turns out there were two separate problems: 1) the blower wheel had broken completely off of the motor so it wasn't spinning - this is why hot air wasn't being pulled through from the heater in the back of the dryer; 2) the pulley on the spring-loaded lever arm attached to the motor was squeaking due to lack of lubricant. So the solution was to replace the blower wheel and spray WD-40 in the pulley (and also, for good measure in the roller bearings that support the drum in the back of the dryer). Most of the time spent on the repair was just due to my own mistakes. In particular, once I got everything back together after the repair, it stopped squeaking and there was good airflow, but it wasn't heating. I spent an entire day trying to troubleshoot the lack of heat. I tested and bypassed all of the thermostats and heater fuses and the heating element still wouldn't come on. I even managed to accidentally ground one of the leads from the fuse and had to replace a melted wire connector (trip to the Shack). In the end, it turned out that a wire which had been accidentally disconnected from the main power cord to the dryer, I had put back in the wrong spot. There is L1, L2, and neutral going into the dryer. I had the heater on the same circuit as the motor and other stuff. Once I traced the wiring diagram back, I realized this and corrected it by putting the heating circuit back onto L2. Now it "hums like a Singer". If everything had gone smoothly, instead of being a 2-day repair, it would have been a 2 hour repair. 2 hours instead of 1 because to get the leverage I needed to remove the old blower nut, I had to actually pull the motor assembly out of the dryer and move it to my workbench. Someone who is strong or more limber or has better tools might be able to skip that step, reducing the time by about 45 minutes. Good luck!