AGDS902WW-P1131831NWW Amana Range - Instructions

After shutting off the gas and removing the oven door, which simply slid off of the hinges, I removed the oven plate. The ignitor was attached to the manifold. I removed that and noted the wires were attached back behind a hole in the back of the oven. I thought I would have to access them from the back but when I pulled on them I was able to reach them from the front. I was surprised to find plastic lugs covering the wire ends, rather than ceramic. I attached the new ignitor wires and reused the plastic lugs, as no ceramic ones came with the new ignitor. I carefully slid the new ignitor back into the cage/shield attached to the manifold and replaced the manifold. I then turned the gas back on and tested the ignitor (which worked perfectly) before replacing the oven plate. The repair took less than 30 minutes, but my wife and I thoroughly cleaned the door and interior while we had it apart. The hardest part was getting the door back on the hinges, but this too was accomplished after several attempts. The oven heats up beautifully now.

Remove 2 screws holding the top burner. Remove 1 screw holding the electrode. Remove electrode from wiring using plier. Install new electrode and top burner

Unplugged the stove, removed all 4 burner discs from the stove top (2 screws each) and disconnecting electrode wires as I pulled them out, removed the stove top, unscrewed the old module, removed the 6 wires, connected wires to the new module, screwed it into place, reinstalled the top while poking the electrode wires through the top one by one, put the stove top in place, connected the wires to the burner discs. Done, and it works! It took longer to find and order the part than it did to change it out.

Remove the two screws from the burner assembly (on top of the burner). Lift burner assembly from the cook top. Disconnect the electrode wire from the electrode. Remove the screw holding the electrode to the burner assembly (on bottom of burner). Install the new electrode and attach the electrode to the burner assembly. Attach the electrode wire to the electrode. drop the burner assembly back into position on the cooktop. Attach the burner assembly using two screws.

I thought the problem was with the ignitors/burners since they appeared to be worn. As it turned out, I needed the spark ignitor, which is a "brain box" located under the range cover. It connects all of the ignitor/burners and sends current to the ignitors to give it the "spark" to ignite the gas. It was really easy to replace.

I could not figure out how to get to the igniter until I went to the "Part Select" web site and found a post that was exactly like the problem that I had. IE: Remove two screws holding each burner, Lift off top, remove old igniter being "Carefull" not to mix up the wires when putting them on the new one, installed new igniter in bracket and mounted in position, Reinstalled top and PRESTO - it worked. First post was VERY HELPFUL. Thank you

replaced top burner - in theory simple, but severe rusting of two screws holding the burner required drilling and extracting with a screw extractor. The screws broke requiring that the entire burner pan assembly be taken apart to remove the broken nubs of screws from behind with vice grips. Recommend that you have proper sized pan head screws available when you start job so it can be finished in one sitting. Burner starts perfectly now.

easy to put in

After the appliance store told me that the repair would cost about $500 to fix an oven that wouldn't light we didn't have the money to repair it or buy a new one so we went without an oven (only the oven) for almost 1 year. The igniter would glow but the oven would not light. my son found your site online and passed it on to me. It was so simple it's almost funny. I opened the oven door and removed the burner cover. Then reached in and removed the three screws that held the igniter in place. Turned off the gas, disconedted it so I could pull the stove out to get behind it. Found the wires to the igniter and undid the 2 wire nuts. Removed the igniter cover from the old one and slid it onto the new one. Be very careful because the igniter is very delicate and be sure to not toucjh the heating eliment. Slid the new part into place, reinstalled the screws, connected the new wires with the old wire nuts, reconnected the gas and turned on the oven. BAM it worked like a charm.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

First we removed the oven doors. Then removed the shelf that separates the oven from the broiler, giving us more room to work. At first we thought we needed to loosen the screws around the bracket holding the ignitor, but we realized that the burner needed to be removed. Lifting the burner up from the front gave us the room to pull it gently from the back of the oven wall, giving more room to pull the wires connected to the ignitor from the back of the oven wall out and then disconnecting them. Then carefully pulling the ignitor out of the bracket.

Putting the new ignitor in was easy. Carefully sliding it into the bracket, not touching the ceramic piece, connected the electric wires, pushed the wires back into the hole in the back of the oven. Then placing the burner back into place.

We then turned on the gas and the electricity and the ignitor glowed and the burner lit. PERFECT! In the past we've had a repair man come in and this time we saved $100. Even more perfect.

No tools were needed; the old burner bowls were taken out and replaced with the new burner bowls. I would like to say the service was great from PartSelect. com. I was so happy I was able to find replacement bowls for my older drop-in range that I ordered a second set to keep for future use. PartSelect.com sent the replacement bowls quickly, and the order was processed very efficiently. Thank you!

Replaced the spark igniter which had been broken.
Great response and shipping time, even though one part was back ordered. Works perfectly!

Regarding my right side oven door hinge replacement, P/N PS2172201

After reading that other people had trouble threading the screws into the new hinge, I looked at the drilled mounting holes in the new hinge. Neither hole was threaded. The smaller hole used a self tapping sheet metal screw which works fine. The larger hole gets a machine screw and will not self tap. Since the instructions say put the screw in "once" to tap the holes before installing the hinge, I tried this. It doesn't work, regardless of what the instructions say. The larger hole should come from the manufacture threaded. I do have a tap and die set so I tapped the hole myself. After that, the installation is a 5 min. ordeal.

Take the two screws, one on each side, out that hold the oven door on the hinges. The door will then pull straight off the hinges. Take the storage drawer below the oven out. Unscrew the top and bottom hinge screws and pull the old hinge out from inside at the bottom. Put the new "threaded" hinge into position and hold from the bottom, inside. Screw in the two screws, large one on the top end, and put the door back on. You can open both hinges about 30 degrees to allow the door to slide back on the hinges easily. Put the last two screws in that hold the door to the hinges and you are done.

Really very easy and saved several hundred dollars in repair bills. I might add that my hinge arrived on time 3 or 4 days after the order was placed.

i disconnected the power supply, took all shelves out of oven, removed screw that holds the bunner to oven, removed bunner along with igniter. cut wires to igniter wired new igniter , tested before
installing bunner,( ok) installed bunner and screw
fired up and all is well.