79048853901 Kenmore Microwave - Instructions

I pulled my unit out of the wall and noticed that the insulation around the top broiler element was a bit brown. Closer inspection revealed that the element had shorted somehow to the oven itself and caused the element to become non-functional. I tried measuring the resistance first, and it was within typical values for the other elements, but I decided to replace the element anyway.

I ordered from PD and the part arrived just a few days letter by regular shipping. I undid the screws holding in the element, undid the wire connectors and replaced the broken element with the new one. The element worked like a charm and I was back in business for cooking.

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

I first removed the top plate above the microwave door (3 screws), then I removed the plate containing the buttons and clock. The microwave has 3 relay switches and they are in a little holder. The holder was too difficult to remove so I just removed the bottom switch and replaced. The microwave started right up.

Repair was quite easy, as long as you have the instructions for removing the door. The screws that hold the bottom of the door to the fixed hinge are placed into the side of the hinge assembly after removal; this holds the door at a 45 degree angle for easy removal. After that, just place the door on a flat surface and dismantle the door from the inside. The inner glass is contained in a metal frame with another piece of glass; this frame comes apart easily using the clips in each side. The door assembles easily after the glass is replaced; just take your time and give yourself enough room to lay out the parts as you go. Good luck!

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Removed old element and plugged in new. Very simple.

was told buy a repair person to check the door micro switches as it was a common problem. removed the top plastic air grill to get access to the screw that holds in place the control cover. After unplugging the unit, i took out the (2) screws that held in the switches and removed them (3). One switch was a bit melted so i tested it with a 12 volt battery and it was bad. Ordered a new one from Part select and got it fast . Works great .

Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...

After unplugging the unit remove the control face buy removing the screws. All three door switchs are on a bracket on the left. Remove the two screws holding the bracket in place and pull out. Disconnect the wires from the three switches and test each switch indivually to determine the bad one. I used a multimeter set on ohms.Replace the bad switch with the new one and replace all the wires. Reassemble the unit and you are good to go.

It is a undercabinet stovetop microwave. First had to take it down and unplug. Remove the top cover locate the door switch. Used neednose pliers to remove switch. Unplug two terminals.Plug new switch and use pliers to replace back @ same position.Plug in socket temporarily to see if it works.Afterwards if it works.Unplug and replace cover.Ready to be replaced back under cabinet.

Removed two screws holding broiler element. Released two spring hangers on near the front of the element. Pulled element away from oven and pulled two wire connectors off. Simply reverse process to install new one. Wasn't the problem.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Have a double wall oven and the top oven would not shut off or broiler part would stay on and burn tops of food. Since bottom oven was not having any issues felt like it could
Not be control panel so decided to try the temp sensor. Since replacing oven has worked properly.

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

Cut power to your oven in your circuit breaker panel
Take out racks and bottom pan from the oven
Remove 2 screws in element bracket at back of oven
Lift element gently, tilt upward and pull towards you out of insulation
Get the tilted wire connectors clear of the back panel
Remove two wires from from connectors gently with your fingers
Take bad element out of oven
Replace it with new element
Replace everything else
Piece of cake. 20 minutes max: remove old; plug and play.