79049603310 Kenmore Microwave - Instructions

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

I first removed the top plate above the microwave door (3 screws), then I removed the plate containing the buttons and clock. The microwave has 3 relay switches and they are in a little holder. The holder was too difficult to remove so I just removed the bottom switch and replaced. The microwave started right up.

was told buy a repair person to check the door micro switches as it was a common problem. removed the top plastic air grill to get access to the screw that holds in place the control cover. After unplugging the unit, i took out the (2) screws that held in the switches and removed them (3). One switch was a bit melted so i tested it with a 12 volt battery and it was bad. Ordered a new one from Part select and got it fast . Works great .

After unplugging the unit remove the control face buy removing the screws. All three door switchs are on a bracket on the left. Remove the two screws holding the bracket in place and pull out. Disconnect the wires from the three switches and test each switch indivually to determine the bad one. I used a multimeter set on ohms.Replace the bad switch with the new one and replace all the wires. Reassemble the unit and you are good to go.

It is a undercabinet stovetop microwave. First had to take it down and unplug. Remove the top cover locate the door switch. Used neednose pliers to remove switch. Unplug two terminals.Plug new switch and use pliers to replace back @ same position.Plug in socket temporarily to see if it works.Afterwards if it works.Unplug and replace cover.Ready to be replaced back under cabinet.

Have a double wall oven and the top oven would not shut off or broiler part would stay on and burn tops of food. Since bottom oven was not having any issues felt like it could
Not be control panel so decided to try the temp sensor. Since replacing oven has worked properly.

first of all, ordered the right piece, second, brought the right handyman to help...getting the over/microwave out as one piece took some doing...then the cover of the microwave had to come off...once we got to the piece itself, it was no issue... then putting it all back together...took about two hours...he needed our assistance because of thew weight and the need to pull the units out simultaneously

As this microwave is part of a wall micro/oven combo, we removed the trim, slid out the microwave and tried for days to figure out how to release the microwave control panel. Through sheer force, we were able to release the lower half of the panel...enough to get our fingers, chopsticks and a flashlight inside to remove the broken lever. It took 2 of us to pull the panel out and replace the lever. I was hoping for a video online of how to remove that control panel but luckily we changed out the broken lever and it's back in working order! Glad we didn't have to trash and entire microwave/oven combo for one broken plastic part...it all works fine now.

Installation of the temparature sensor, one of the technician recommended parts took no time, just two screws and a snap off/snap on part. It did not fix the problem. I then replaced the main control panel, which requires more work, but didn't solce the ussue either. I then replaced the thermal fuse, which wasn't mentioned by tech support, and required much more disassebly of the top panels of the stove, with still no fix to the problem. I am waiting to replace the thermostat heat sensor unit, the only other part in the circuit controlling power supply, requiring removal of the stove top again,

To determine which switch was bad, I removed all three switches from microwave. I used a D-cell battery taping two pieces of wire to the POS and NEG ends. Tape the POS end of wire to a flashlight bulb's bottom tip. Tape or twist the NEG end to the bottom of the switch. Connect another piece of wire to the top of switch and touch the side of the flashlight bulb with the other end of the wire; the bulb should come on. Depress the red button on the switch and the light should go out. The switch is good if this occurs. If light does not come on or the bulb does not got out once the red button is depressed, the switch is bad. Now you have determined which switch to order for replacement.

Disconnected the power cord, removed the outer cover, shorted the two terminals of the high voltage capacitor with the blade of a screw driver with well insulated handle (very important to prevent a bad shock!!),;removed the plastic fan housing for access to the grounding screw and capacitor housing, installed the new capacitor with the reverse of the above steps (but don't reconnect the power cord yet!!}
Now, the most important step of all, reach inside the oven and remove the mica wave guide cover, clean the oven walls thoroughly and clean the inside of the wave guide with clean cloth and water, sand to bare metal any carburized spots on the exit of the wave guide, cut out any carburized spots on the mica cover, replace the clean cover , or order a new one if necessary. It is OK to use the microwave without the cover while waiting for shipment of the replacement mica cover, but be absolutely sure there will be no food spatters on or near the wave guide opening.

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

Remove microwave from wall, removed outer cover which allowed access behind the control panel, was then able to take out the broken lever and with a little maneuvering was able to replace it with the new one. The whole process took less than an hour and was easy to accomplish.

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.