Models > JVM1870SK03

JVM1870SK03 General Electric Microwave

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This halogen light bulb is a replacement part for the bulb behind the top grill in your microwave. It is sold individually.
In Stock
$16.32
This ceramic microwave fuse is just over an inch in length. It is white in the center, and metal on both ends. This is a 20-amp fuse, and is used to power your microwave. If the touch pad on the micro...
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$72.87
This motor rotates the glass turntable in the microwave and accepts a D-shaped shaft.
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This secondary door switch is also known as a micro switch, and it is a genuine OEM replacement part for your microwave. The switch communicates with the electronic control board, to let it know if th...
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This part accepts a D-shaped motor shaft.
No Longer Available
This tray rotates in your microwave ensuring more even temperatures and is approx.14-1/2 inches in diameter.
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This metallic vent hood filter collects grease particles in the air from cooking. Sold individually.
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NOTE: The charcoal filter cannot be cleaned. It must be replaced. This metallic vent hood filter collects grease particles in the air from cooking.
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$14.60
Sold individually.
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This part allows power to go one way only.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for JVM1870SK03

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Won’t turn on
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No heat
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Tray won’t turn
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Doesn’t shut off
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Touchpad does not respond
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Noisy
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Door not closing properly
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Customer:
Kim from Cliffside Park, NJ
Parts Used:
WB27X10928
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Microwave completely stopped working
Turned out the issue was easily solved by replacing a single, inexpensive fuse.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the mic rowave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
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Customer:
Marla from Arlington, TX
Parts Used:
WB24X829
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
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Customer:
Mark from GRAND BLANC, MI
Parts Used:
WB25X10019, WB36X10071
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Lens cracked and bulbs burned out
First I removed the single screw holding the lens assembly in place. Then I lowered the assembly and tilted it until it came out. To remove the existing cracked glass lens there were four tabs bent down on it. By hand I lifted each tab just enough to remove the broken lens. I then replaced the broken lens with the new one and re-bent the tabs down by hand to secure them to the new lens.

The lens assembly, now removed, revealed the cavity that contained the two halogen bulbs. Since they were both burned out for days, they weren't hot so I could pull each one out by hand. The bulbs are secured by two straight heavy gauge wire leads and provided a little resistance but come out fairly easily. Make a mental note of the angle they came out so it will be easier to replace them with new ones.

You're not supposed to touch halogen bulbs with your bare hands, so I used the bubble wrap they came in as a means to hold the bulb while installing it.

Be sure to insert the bulbs at the same angle they came out so the pins do not get bent.

Once both bulbs are in place, replace the lens cover assembly by putting the end opposite where the screw hole goes in first on the right, then swing it up until flush and screw it down.
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