Models
>
GTC1421WA01
GTC1421WA01 General Electric Microwave
Jump to:
Find Part by Name
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Diagrams for GTC1421WA01
Viewing 2 of 2
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 30
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 30
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 30
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 30
$259.92
This magnetron uses electrical and magnetic currents in order to create an intense heat output.
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 30
$91.58
The capacitor is an electric circuit element that is used to store charge temporarily.
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 30
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 30
This part will turn off once the probe sensor determines the cooking process is complete.
No Longer Available
Special Order
Questions and Answers
We're sorry, but our Q&A experts are temporarily unavailable.
Please check back later if you still haven't found the answer you need.
Common Problems and Symptoms for GTC1421WA01
Viewing 4 of 4Won’t turn on
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
No heat
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Doesn’t shut off
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Tray won’t turn
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Roy from Colorado Springs, CO
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10017
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Unit worked fine except it would not heat
Had to take unit off wall and disassemble the main casing.then disconnected the wires from the magnetron.took the mounting nuts off but wasn't able to remove the magnetron until I loosened the transformer out of the way .Then it came out easy.Installed the magnetron ,tightened the nuts,installed the transformer back in, connected the t
... Read more
he wires back on and installed the casing on ,screwed the screws and got help to install the unit to the wall again.....Tested the unit before putting back on the wall to make sure it heated....The parts were exac same type and wasn't too hard to do...
Read less
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Andras from Lexington, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10195
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven would not power up
There are 4 thermostats (aka TCO = Thermal Cut Out) in the GE JVM1440BH04
The schematic is under the cover in a black envelope to the top left of the unit if you face the door.
Check the fuse first. You can remove the front grate, then the numpad on the right. The fuse is right behind it. It's a 250V 20A Class F fuse.
... Read more />
There are four (4) TCOs or Thermal Cut Out thermostats in this puppy:
1) There is a thermostat behind the button panel to the left, facing down. If blown, it breaks the power coming into the unit and will cause a no power situation.
2) There is another TCO or thermostat near the top lamp, to the left, in a small cavity. That one also breaks power to the unit and will cause a no power situation. It's a 100 C / 0 C thermostat. This was the one that blew on me after I left the stove running (for heating in a black-out) under the microwave.
"Cavity TCO" or "Thermostat" part number 61 on the schematics, part number PS239319
3) There is yet another power-breaking TCO or thermostat in the cavity behind the fan that cools the microwave coils. You have to remove the sheet metal on the right of the microwave to access it. This one also breaks power and will cause a no power situation.
1), 2) and 3) should test out to be 0 Ohms with a resistance meter (Digital Multimeter) if working correctly.
4) There is a thermostat which normally does not let current through it. It is mounted in a vertical position to the back wall behind the front panel on the right. This one is used for the sensor reheat function apparently and will close when the temperature in the microwave reaches approx. 60 C.
4) should have infinite resistance with a resistance meter under normal circumstances.
The schematic is under the cover in a black envelope to the top left of the unit if you face the door.
Check the fuse first. You can remove the front grate, then the numpad on the right. The fuse is right behind it. It's a 250V 20A Class F fuse.
... Read more />
There are four (4) TCOs or Thermal Cut Out thermostats in this puppy:
1) There is a thermostat behind the button panel to the left, facing down. If blown, it breaks the power coming into the unit and will cause a no power situation.
2) There is another TCO or thermostat near the top lamp, to the left, in a small cavity. That one also breaks power to the unit and will cause a no power situation. It's a 100 C / 0 C thermostat. This was the one that blew on me after I left the stove running (for heating in a black-out) under the microwave.
"Cavity TCO" or "Thermostat" part number 61 on the schematics, part number PS239319
3) There is yet another power-breaking TCO or thermostat in the cavity behind the fan that cools the microwave coils. You have to remove the sheet metal on the right of the microwave to access it. This one also breaks power and will cause a no power situation.
1), 2) and 3) should test out to be 0 Ohms with a resistance meter (Digital Multimeter) if working correctly.
4) There is a thermostat which normally does not let current through it. It is mounted in a vertical position to the back wall behind the front panel on the right. This one is used for the sensor reheat function apparently and will close when the temperature in the microwave reaches approx. 60 C.
4) should have infinite resistance with a resistance meter under normal circumstances.
Read less
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- david from elmira, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10017
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
oven wouldn't heat
1. remove microwave from wall
2. remove cover (many screws)
3. remove nuts holding magnetron in place (4)
4. remove magnetron (this is a pain due to the plastic molding used to direct cooling air through the magnetron
5. get new magnetron in place (this was even more fun to find the right angles to tilt to get the magn ... Read more etron to fit
6. re-tighten the 4 nuts on the magentron
7. put the cover back on
8. put the unit back on the wall.
bonus repair: the display flickered while the magnetron was on (cooking ) prior to the magnetron dying. found a ribbon cable on the control board to the display with an aluminum foil shield that had peeled off (adhesive failure). re-installing the aluminum shield with packaging tape, and the display no longer flickers
2. remove cover (many screws)
3. remove nuts holding magnetron in place (4)
4. remove magnetron (this is a pain due to the plastic molding used to direct cooling air through the magnetron
5. get new magnetron in place (this was even more fun to find the right angles to tilt to get the magn ... Read more etron to fit
6. re-tighten the 4 nuts on the magentron
7. put the cover back on
8. put the unit back on the wall.
bonus repair: the display flickered while the magnetron was on (cooking ) prior to the magnetron dying. found a ribbon cable on the control board to the display with an aluminum foil shield that had peeled off (adhesive failure). re-installing the aluminum shield with packaging tape, and the display no longer flickers
Read less
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!