Models > GTC1060WJ02

GTC1060WJ02 General Electric Microwave

Jump to:

Find Part by Name

Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Diagrams for GTC1060WJ02

Viewing 1 of 1
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
This secondary door switch is also known as a micro switch, and it is a genuine OEM replacement part for your microwave. The switch communicates with the electronic control board, to let it know if th...
In Stock
This interlock switch is located in the door latch.
In Stock
In Stock
Also known as Thermostat or Humidity Sensor for Fault Code.
In Stock
This diode has a 1/4" female connection and an eyelet.
In Stock
In Stock
Special Order
Special Order
Special Order
$16.33
Special Order
No Longer Available
No Longer Available

Questions and Answers

We're sorry, but our Q&A experts are temporarily unavailable.
Please check back later if you still haven't found the answer you need.

Common Problems and Symptoms for GTC1060WJ02

Viewing 5 of 5
Won’t turn on
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Doesn’t shut off
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
No heat
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Touchpad does not respond
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
Tray won’t turn
Fixed by these parts
Fixing
How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Marla from Arlington, TX
Parts Used:
WB24X829
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
314 of 374 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Customer:
Bishop from Coupland, TX
Parts Used:
WB24X829
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Microwave Fan Turned on When Door Was Opened
To get to the switches you need to remove the metal cover/housing of the microwave, by first removing several screws that hold it in place, and then sliding the cover towards the back of the unit. You'll find the switches in some plastic holders above the door-open button, and it's its easy to see how the mechanism engages/disengages the switches when the door is opened and closed.

If it is not obvious which switch is bad, in our case the bad switch felt "soft" when we pressed the switch button with our fingers. A good switch has a firm "click" when pressed.

The switches are easy to replace - pop out the old switch (no tools required) and pull off the electrical connectors. Then pop in the new switch and reattach the connectors.
48 of 59 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Customer:
Chad from Firestone, CO
Parts Used:
WB24X829
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
All electircal functions worked except the heating mechanism
A great place to start is to reveiw the posting from "Marla From Arlington TX" posted on 8-3-09. It provides an excellent description of the process that you will need to follow. The only additional thing that I would add is to check the contacts on the switches. In my case I found that all three of the switches had a small build-up of corrosion. I used sandpaper to clean the contacts. Because none of the switches had a "soft" click to them, it was hard to identify the bad one. I basically picked the worse looking one and then cleaned the contacts of the other two. I'm not sure if I actually even had a bad switch or if they all just needed cleaning. Whatever the case, it worked. I would suggest checking the contacts first. You may get away with not having to replace any of the switches. And in my case what makes me think that it may have just simply been dirty contacts is that the heating mechanism would engage every now and then. It wasn't dead 100 percent of the time. It's worth a try anyway.
48 of 63 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!