Models > DVM1850DMWW01

DVM1850DMWW01 General Electric Microwave

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This 40-Watt 130-Volt lightbulb is a genuine OEM replacement for your microwave. The bulb is used either inside the microwave and turns on when the door is open, or the appliance is running. Or it can...
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Light bulb not included.
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This is a single OEM light bulb that brightens the surface beneath the microwave or the inside part of the microwave. This 120 volt and 20 watt light bulb gives off a soft white light, and has a clear...
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$72.81
This motor rotates the glass turntable in the microwave and accepts a D-shaped shaft.
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This secondary door switch is also known as a micro switch, and it is a genuine OEM replacement part for your microwave. The switch communicates with the electronic control board, to let it know if th...
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This part accepts a D-shaped motor shaft.
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This tray rotates in your microwave ensuring more even temperatures and is approx.14-1/2 inches in diameter.
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This metallic vent hood filter collects grease particles in the air from cooking. Sold individually.
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NOTE: The charcoal filter cannot be cleaned. It must be replaced. This metallic vent hood filter collects grease particles in the air from cooking.
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This part is the replacement flat cab mounting bolt for your microwave. The bolt is approximately 4 inches long. It is designed to hold the microwave in place in your cabinet. The main reason to repla...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for DVM1850DMWW01

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Tray won’t turn
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Won’t turn on
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Doesn’t shut off
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No heat
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Noisy
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Touchpad does not respond
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Customer:
Marla from Arlington, TX
Parts Used:
WB24X829
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
314 of 374 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Gene from Urbana, IL
Parts Used:
WB36X10003, WB08X10016
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Light bulb out, tried to remove, lamp socket broke
Above the stove mounted microwave. I dropped the lens cover from under the bulb and tried to remove the bulb. The bulb separated from the base. I tried to remove the base with a pliers and the lamp socket broke. I ordered the parts and dropped the bottom cover of the unit down (5 screws). Removed 1 screww from the lamp socket, unplugged t he wires and took it out. Simply replaced socket, fastened bottom cover of microwave, installed new bulb and closed lens cover.
219 of 260 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Kim from Centerville, GA
Parts Used:
WB26X10038
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
The turntable motor went out and was making a horrible sound when I started the microwave
First I unplugged the microwave. :) Then, I removed the 6 screws found underneath the microwave, which allowed the bottom piece to hang down so I could see the turntable motor. I took the two screws out holding the motor in place and pulled the electric connectors off the motor terminals. Then I got the new part from PartSelect.com, repla ced the electrical commectors, fit the motor back into the slot it came from (cause the pin has to be seated up in the hole) and replaced the 2 screws holding in the motor. Then I put the bottom metal piece back up and put the 6 screws back in. It was really easy - and I'm a chick! ;)
158 of 224 people found this instruction helpful.
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