JVM3160DF8BB General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Remove microwave outer cover. Turn on side & locate the upper & lower door switches. Better to replace in pairs even if one is ok. Remove the wire harness to each switch. Then replace switch and re connect the wire harness. Re attach outer cover
and test to see if that solved the problem. If so then well done!!

First I disconnected the power and opened the door. Then I removed the top screws holding the top vent louvers, then removed the screw at the top of the touch pad. The touch pad removes by sliding up slightly then tilting top out. I unscrewed two screws holding the door latch assembly. Press the tab to remove and replace switch. Reconnect wires, reseat latch mount by placing top bracket tab in place first, allign and secure with screws. Reseat touch pad by placing bottom tabs in first, tilt forward and press up to seat top tabs, secure with top screw. Secure vent louver screws, plug in and watch your microwave work again.

I broke the tray glass in the microwave cleaning it so this was a no brainer. The best part of this was the PartSelect experience. I ordered the part on the 30th of December and received it on 3 Jan!!! I have used PartSelect before for fridge repair and had the same experience.

I followed the generic trouble shooting directions on the web site. It suggested either diode, capacitor and/or magnetron. I test each. All tested OK except diode. It was supposed to measure open in one direction and appox 200k ohms in the other direction. My diode measured open in both directions (tried multiple times, multiple settings). I replaced the diode. The order process was great and it shipped immediately. I knew I was in trouble when I measured the new diode and it too was open in both directions. It was easy to install but unfortunately no joy - did not solve the problem. At this point it is likely cheaper just to buy a new one

No actual repair was necessary. However I do want to thank PartSelect for sending a replacement so quickly.

I unplugged it, removed the outer shell with torque bits and a screwdriver, drained the main capacitor, and began debugging the circuit with my fluke multimeter, found the bad primary interlock, googled the part number, ordered the part, received it in 2 days, replaced the interlock in about 2 minutes, and put the cover back on. Fixed. Saved me about $200 over buying a new unit and was grateful for partselect's great service.

-Keith Packard

Had to remove microwave from the wall. Then disassemble entire top assembly to get to the part. Easy enough to replace after that. Then just reassemble and reinstall. About 2hrs. total

Removed screws holding outer shell. Pushed in door handle to identify faulty switch. Ordered part. Pryed switch out with screw driver and unplugged. reinstalled new switch. Presto. BUT... I did NOT use both hands while working on the microwave. I did not release the energy from the capacitor or whatever holds the killer amperage even when unplugged. It would be advisable to do this first. I did not because it seemed complicated, so I was EXTREMELY CAREFUL about not touching anything else inside the unit. I used one hand only so if I did touch something I would not get juiced through the chest. It was a piece of cake repair, but I would not go deeper without doing the discharge routine.

Remove microwave and set on flat surface. Remove all screws on top. Remove all screws around back edge holding top on. Finally remove the screws on botton holding top on and remove top. On left side on top, remove 6 screws holding black channel in place. Also remove 3 screws holding metal top in place. Now lift black channel up and unplug 2 wires on cutout. Replace cutout and reinstall everything in reverse order. Worst part is taking microwave down and reinstalling.

just in 1 2 3 step easy way. First unplug the power cord,use a small flat-head screwdriver to pull out the plastic rivet pin,rotate the old cover counter clockwise to removed lift out the blade assembly, install the new cover stirrer fan by first positioning the blade assembly then align the cover and rotate it clockwise to secure, then replace the mounting plastic rivet pin;with the repair completed, plug the power cord back in and your microwave oven should be ready for use again. : )

The spacesaver is mounted over the stovetop. I removed the oven, then removed all the screws from the cover. Removed the cover and located the TCO and removed the wiring and the TCO. Ordered the part VIA internet and replaced it . It helps a little that I was Radar tec. and taught Electronics for 10 years and repaired lots of Microwaves. However anyone could do it just watch what you remove and replace in reverse order.

Had to remove outer cover (special screws involved). Found the correct part at PartSelect.Com and it arrived 3 days later as promissed.

This oven has diffcult electrical connections at switch to get disconnected. I found it easier with the sw loose and in hand so that the connectors can be released with a small screwdriver.

One has to this in order to test the part wirh an ohm meter. I found the sw did not close but remained open and thus caused the oven not to function.

Removing interconnect switch is tricky but not difficult.

Outer cover replacement is not as easy as it should be, especially the sides.

All is well and working.

Microwaves are simple devices if you are know how to read and understand schemetic diagrams.

Replaced

This is the second time replacing this fuse, last time was exactly one year ago. The first time I replaced it, I removed the oven from the wall & disassembled a number of things to reach the culprit. This time I left the oven mounted & was able to access the 2 grille mounting screws on the top of the grille & remove it. Next comes the black plastic air deflector held by two screws & is mounted in front & on the right, it is shown on the parts list just above part #1434. After removing it, remove the two silver cover screws in the front, this cover also doesn't have a part # but is shown to the right of part #1410. At this point you can lift this cover enough to access the fuse which is on the left & held in place by one tiny screw through the clamp at the top, (careful not to drop it when removing). PS: Don't forget to cut the power to the microwave before starting!

This was the second time I've had to open up the microwave. 1st time display would blank out but system would continue to operate. Found solder connections on board to LED display were defective. Resoldered and unit was fine. This time I found the connection to the oven cavity temp cut-off was bad, plastic connection cover melted. When unit operated bottom lead and wire would heat up. Couldn't measure a Discernable distance so either wire or connector connection surface was not sufficient to carry the current. 1st replaced sensor still wire heated up. Replaced connector and there was no sign how heat from resistances.