DVM7195FL6DS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Remove microwave outer cover. Turn on side & locate the upper & lower door switches. Better to replace in pairs even if one is ok. Remove the wire harness to each switch. Then replace switch and re connect the wire harness. Re attach outer cover
and test to see if that solved the problem. If so then well done!!

First I disconnected the power and opened the door. Then I removed the top screws holding the top vent louvers, then removed the screw at the top of the touch pad. The touch pad removes by sliding up slightly then tilting top out. I unscrewed two screws holding the door latch assembly. Press the tab to remove and replace switch. Reconnect wires, reseat latch mount by placing top bracket tab in place first, allign and secure with screws. Reseat touch pad by placing bottom tabs in first, tilt forward and press up to seat top tabs, secure with top screw. Secure vent louver screws, plug in and watch your microwave work again.

I followed the generic trouble shooting directions on the web site. It suggested either diode, capacitor and/or magnetron. I test each. All tested OK except diode. It was supposed to measure open in one direction and appox 200k ohms in the other direction. My diode measured open in both directions (tried multiple times, multiple settings). I replaced the diode. The order process was great and it shipped immediately. I knew I was in trouble when I measured the new diode and it too was open in both directions. It was easy to install but unfortunately no joy - did not solve the problem. At this point it is likely cheaper just to buy a new one

I unplugged it, removed the outer shell with torque bits and a screwdriver, drained the main capacitor, and began debugging the circuit with my fluke multimeter, found the bad primary interlock, googled the part number, ordered the part, received it in 2 days, replaced the interlock in about 2 minutes, and put the cover back on. Fixed. Saved me about $200 over buying a new unit and was grateful for partselect's great service.

-Keith Packard

Removed screws holding outer shell. Pushed in door handle to identify faulty switch. Ordered part. Pryed switch out with screw driver and unplugged. reinstalled new switch. Presto. BUT... I did NOT use both hands while working on the microwave. I did not release the energy from the capacitor or whatever holds the killer amperage even when unplugged. It would be advisable to do this first. I did not because it seemed complicated, so I was EXTREMELY CAREFUL about not touching anything else inside the unit. I used one hand only so if I did touch something I would not get juiced through the chest. It was a piece of cake repair, but I would not go deeper without doing the discharge routine.

Had to remove outer cover (special screws involved). Found the correct part at PartSelect.Com and it arrived 3 days later as promissed.

This oven has diffcult electrical connections at switch to get disconnected. I found it easier with the sw loose and in hand so that the connectors can be released with a small screwdriver.

One has to this in order to test the part wirh an ohm meter. I found the sw did not close but remained open and thus caused the oven not to function.

Removing interconnect switch is tricky but not difficult.

Outer cover replacement is not as easy as it should be, especially the sides.

All is well and working.

Microwaves are simple devices if you are know how to read and understand schemetic diagrams.

1) Removed 4 screws securing the microwave to the cabinet.2) Slid microwave out, unplugged and placed on a work surface that allowed lower trim to hang over. 3a) Removed two screws and removed the cover on top of the oven. 3b) Unplugged high voltage plug from Magnatron. 4) Removed wires from overtemp fuse mounted to Magnatron. 5) Removed the four screws securing the Magnatron to the oven. 6) Removed Manatron. It's a tight fit, but can be done without removing anything else. 7) Replaced Magnatron. This is where I needed the magnetic part retrieval tool. The nature of a Magnatron is the use of strong magnets surrounding the tube. Getting the four screws back into place wasn't possible with just a normal magnetic screwdriver tip. I used the retrieval tool to position the screws back in place. Be sure to not initially tighten any screw completely, until they can be evenly tightened. This ensures correct compression/seating of the shielding material near the neck of the tube. 8) Reverse removal steps. Plugged in and tested microwave function on a cup of tap water. 9) Reinstated in cabinet and got a big thank you kiss from the wife!

First remove all screws holding on outer metal casing of microwave. Next remove the back and bottom metal pieces. You will then be able to pull aside the outer casing so you can access the door switches. Check each switch with an ohm meter in both the open position and with the switch closed. If the ohm meter reads the same in both the open and closed position, the switch is bad. Check the top switch first. Replace switch and reassemble. Cheap fix for a costly microwave. Great customer service at Parts Select!

I attached the mounting plate to the wall as directed in the installation instructions which I had downloaded from GE. This procedure took 45 minutes to complete. I was then able to mount the microwave.

Followed the instructions on your website and a YouTube video. The diode was at a 90 degree angle which made it a little trickier. Unfortunately the repair did not resolve the problem. I ended up buying a new microwave for temporary use for less than ordering any more parts. We are pleased with your website, instructions, ease of installation though!

Symptom: Terrible sparking coming from the right side of the microwave even with nothing in the microwave. The part that was behind the cover was the business end of what I learned was the magnetron,

Repair process: Without appliance repair experience I went onto Google and searched for parts for my model PEB1590DM2WW. I was able to find a great parts schematic on partselect.com. At first I ordered a magnetron and while waiting for the parts to arrive I also learned that the capacitor can also fail easily as described in the other install feedback on the partsselect website. So I ordered a capacitor just in case. These convection microwaves are around $600 new so a $80 in parts is not out of line for 8 years of service.
I installed the magnetron first and turned it on. sparking immediately continued so I quickly shut the unit off. After replacing the capacitor and letting it charge for several minutes before trying to start the microwave cycle was the issue. I choose to leave the replaced magnetron as the original unit was discolored and felt the replacement was inexpensive insurance. I also learned that if the wave guide (which is a plastic/metallic composite material) that covers the opening to the magnetron is burnt or has metal melted to it as mine did it will act similar to the microwave having metal inside the enclosure and will continue to spark and basically melt the wave guide further. Replacing the wave guide was very easy as well.

I am very thankful for the knowledge base and support available from Partselect.com as they made this repair possible on my own. Thank you partselect.com

Everything worked on the display light inside worked but when you closed the door and set time it would start counting down but not heating nor would the turntable turn. Started reading troubleshooting chart and first thing I did was removed the cover and checked door switches and found primary door switch wasn't working so I ordered a new one installed it and it worked. Anyone doing this has to be very careful because of the stored energy in the capacitor is strong enough to kill.
My micro is only 2 years old so I was hoping it wasn't anything major.

Unscrewed the vent at top of microwave exposing small access to bulb. The access to this was very limited so that was the major issue in changing the bulb. You needed small hands to do the job.

I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.

Required removing the old unit and disconnecting the exhaust ductwork and drilling new holes for attachment to the cabinet