ACM1460AC (PACM1460AC0) Amana Microwave - Instructions

1. I went to the internet to find the service manual for the Maytag microwave.
2. I opened up the oven and started measuring the resistance of the diode, capacitor, transformer, and magnetron between terminals and then to ground. The transformer and magnetron were well within the resistance limits. The diode was shorted in both directions(+-). The capacitor was fully open in both directions -- high resistance.
3. I ordered the 2 parts, installed them, and ran the oven. Worked perfect first time.
4. Reinstalled oven and worked ever since (1 week so far).
5. The secret was that the transformer had a load hum. I figured the transformer was OK. The magnetron had no short between filaments and ground to filaments. The only two left were the diode and capacitor. The first two are about $200 -- almost the value of a new microwave. The $70 repair was well worth it. If the first two were still bad, then tempted to buy a new oven.

Remove top grille (2 screws), undo control panel (1 screw). Tilt down control panel, switches are on the left. There are actually three switches that are involved with the door, two horizontally mounted, one vertically mounted. This would be an EASY REPAIR, but it took me a while to figure out which of the three switches was bad, and also took a while to figure out that there is a plastic rod that inserts through the hole in the switch body. Once i figured this out went like a breeze. Lower horizontal switch was the bad one, but since the kit came with two switches i went ahead and replaced the upper horizontal one as well. IT appears that the horizontal switches are probably more likely to fail than the vertical switch based on the position of the switch and force angles. Works great now!

I looked up the #1 reason for no heat for my microwave on the site , and using my model number found that 92% of the time it was the Black Sleeve Diode. Ordered the $15 part, and installed it within 30 minutes. Most of the time was used for removing the built in microwave and removing the cover. Replaced the diode by finding it on the diagram that I printed from this site (free). Very relieved that we don't need to have our custom cabinetry re-sized to accommodate a new microwave. Thank you!

After determined the problem on one of the websites...I received the part I needed... removed the control panel and installed the new main fuse In about 15 mins!

Used needle nose to pull off piece of old ring. Layed in new one.

I removed the unit from the wall. Took the cover off. Set the unit on its side. It revealed the working parts. Removed the old micro switches. Put in the new oness. Presto, it worked. Very easy for me.
The parts was delivered almost before my notice they were shipped.

1. Removed cabinet screws (10-15?). 2. Removed cabinet. 3. Removed top interlock switch which actually was not defective. The press clip connection appeared as if it had been arcing for quite some time and the corrosion created resistance sufficient to prevent the current from getting through the switch. 4. Replaced switch anyway but broke plastic retaining clip despite every effort not to do so. Reset broken clip with super glue. 5. Reassembled cabinet and appliance is in good working condition.

Problem would come and go. Found service schematic inside unit. Perform all the suggested tests. One possible solution was the primary interlock switch shown on the schematic and a check found the switch stuck. It would free up some times but would stick again in the open position. Ordered switch which was a simple plug in unit.

Had a Trim Kit to remove, just 2 screws on the front to pull it out. Had to remove the tamperproof screws on the back (the outer shell is held on by them). I had to goto a local hardware store as nothing anywhere mentioned I needed this special tool (NOTE!!!!!!!) The bottom had normal phillips head screws. Note: I did not take the entire shell off, just bent it enough so the base plate could be pulled out. This exposed the motor, which strangely enough is NOT held in by any screws, just notches it slides in. Took the old motor out, came out VERY easily (only 1 plug to pull out). The new motors flange tab was bent a little bit so I had to use pliers to bend it back flat so it would fit in the notch on the bottom of the microwave (very easy). Overall A bit difficult due to special tool needed 9at least for me)

Took the cover off, had a lot of screws but easy. Removed the old motor and inserted the new motor. Replace the metal cover and it was ready to go. Can't believe I have waited so long to do this. I was going to replace the microwave but could not find the correct size to fit the cabinet.

Removed case,
Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan.
Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor.
Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.

Took out the old, put in the new.

I took the turntable roller guide, dropped it into the hole, put the plate back on the turntable roller guide; and voila!!! It worked!

Unplug microwave! It's NOT necessary to remove microwave from above stove. Removed two Philips head screws on top front of unit to remove front grille. Removed one screw to remove control panel, letting it hang down. Found inline fuse in cabinet where line cord wires come in. Pulled out blown fuse with thumb and forefinger. Snapped in new fuse, replaced control panel and grille with the three screws. Plugged in the microwave. -Worked great! Good opportunity while grille was off to clean it and replace the charcoal filter inside the cabinet.

Replaced the broken piece with the one purchased at Partselect.com. I was concerned that the part would not be correct since all we did was enter the model number of the microwave. PartSelect.com was really easy to use and sent the correct part. Thanks so much for making this process easy.