MER6750ACW Maytag Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get you for a trip charge. It was easy!!

Thermal switch is integral to element and can not be changed, must replace entire element.

Turn off power. Removed front two screws above oven door jamb and lifted the top. Removed the bracket that holds the element against the glass top and removed the element. Moved brackets from old element to new one, aligning to same numerical position and then moved wiring to new element. Slide new element under bracket and reinstalled single screw. Replaced top and screwed down. Turn on power and test .

Moved the Appliance out unplugged it and removed the backing plate then Remove the Knob and unscrew the infinite switch then marking the 5 wires to know where the go on the new switch, removing and replaced it with the new one

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

Undid two screws on underside of cook top, lifted and exposed underside. Transferred wires from the faulty burner to the new burner, one at a time, paying close attention to their respective position on the wiring posts/terminals. Undid two screws holding old burner and then mounted the new burner to underside of cook top. Was really simple to do. :)

3 months after my 5 year warranty ran out, one of the elements on my wife's maytag cooktop "popped". I was curious to see if I could fix it myself and ran across partselect.com via google. Their step by step instructions for determining the source of the problem (i.e. either the element or the control was bad) led me to realize that the element was bad. I ordered a new one -- which arrived in 3 days! It was very easy to replace the element, since I had already taken the glass cooktop off of the range during the testing phase. Thanks partselect.com!

1st removed the door from the hinges by sliding it up. Then removed all the screws holding the door together. Then removed the screw securing the trim. Removed the screws from inside the trim holding the old handle... replaced the handle and trim. replaced all screws in reverse order. Replaced the door on the hinges. all done

removed back cover
removed wires
removed two screws and removed switch
replaced switch and two screws
replaced wires and back cover

1. tripped circuit breaker for stovetop
2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet.
3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface.
4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached.
5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity.
6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side.
7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together.
8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.

Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150.
Tom in Steinhatchee

Turned off the power . Removed two screws in front, lifted top, used a piece of wood to hold up,took off wires to bad element removed old element, replaced with the new one, put wires back on ,closed top,screws to front,on with power and cooked dinner!

The door trim is held in place by five (5) screws. First I removed the two (2) side screws and then the three bottom screws. Be very careful because the trim holds the front glass panel in place. The repair can be made without removing the front door of the oven. Just remove the bottom drawer to get to the bottom three screws. Took approx. 15 to 20 minutes to complete. That's because I took the time to clean the inside of the glass panel. Really easy!

First of all, I shut off the electricity to the stove.

I had to remove the two screws holding the stovetop in place. I then lifted it up and braced it to keep it from falling, removed the bad element, carefully marking the 4 wires that were connected to the element. I then disconnected the wires, and removed the two brackets holding the element in place. I replaced it with the new element, reconnected the wires, returned the stovetop to it's original place, put the two stovetop screws in, and turned on the electricity. Then I turned on the element, and it works just fine.

Removed stove top. Removed old element paying attention to wiring connections. Installed new element. Redconnected wiring. Put stove top back in place. Tested. Ate dinner.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

It wasn't the handle that was broken, it was what the handle was attached to that was. I removed the door by opening to first detent and just lifting the door upward. Once off, I removed the screws on the top sides and underneath - a total of 9. This allowed me to remove the edging on the sides and underneath - the front glass came with it as well. Then I removed the Top trim by removing a screw on each of the sides and two on the front - this was the piece that was broken. Since I had already disassembled most of the door, I went ahead and dismatled the rest so that I could clean everything. The pieces that would fit went into the dishwaser and the rest (including the glass) I washed by hand (except the white insulation pieces of course). I did take apart the double glass panel by lifting up on a bent tab on one of the corners - this allowed me to clean the insides as well as the groves in which the glass sat. After everything was clean, I reassembled everything in the reverse order substituting the new trim for the old.

Notes: The top of the trim piece has two diferent screws - two short ones that screws into the trim piece itself and two that go through to the door metal. The screw that I ordered ended up being one of the short ones and I wanted the other. The snap nut was correct, and was what the longer screw to the trim actually grabs on to. I ended up using one of my own screws that fit like a dream, but wasn't painted white. The other note is that the sheet metal that the trim piece screws into from the front was slightly stripped. All I had to do was to place the metal on a hard surface and hit the holes with a hammer to bring them back into a usable form - not ideal, but worked nonetheless.