JMW8527DAW Jenn-Air Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

DOOR HINGE: Lifted the door out of place and layed it on the floor. Removed the six screws (three on top and three on bottom) from the door to remove the front panel exposing the hinges. Removed three screws from each hinge to remove them. Reversed the process to complete. HINGE BRACKET: Would recommend replacing these with hinges. After removing the screws that hold the oven in I pulled the oven out about four inches. Brackets are now easily removed and replaced, two screws each. Slide the oven back resecure and your done. DOOR GASKET: Just pulled it out and snapped in the new.

Remove the oven door. Remove 3 self tappers on rear wall of oven to take off a round access panel. Pull out a pre-cut rectangle of insulation. Next I removed the 2 screws holding the sensor in place. Pulling the sensor out a bit told me I was "touching" the correct wires in the SMALL rectangular opening. The wires are not visable and 2 hands do not fit in this small opening.I looked at the NEW sensor to see the release on the sensor plug. Slip the angled needle nose into the opening and grasp the plug/release side. The plug pulled apart easily. The sensor wire pulls out with a little bit of twisting to fit it out the hole. The new plug pushes in and has to be worked down to where you can reach it. The same angled plier works to re-attach it. It takes longer to read this than to do the job. Best of luck, Al

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

If doing this for the first time, it's harder to replace than described by others.

Start by removing the oven door. Reach in to unscrew the two screws that hold the sensor in place on the back wall of the oven. I was working on the upper oven of a double wall oven and found it more comfortable to sit on a tall bar stool while working. Pull the sensor partially out and you will see the connector wire running through the sensor opening. The sensor connector plug is too deep into the oven to reach with fingers or any tool. Next unscrew the 6" round heat circulator fan just below the sensor on the back wall of the oven. Pull the fan partially out and you will see the plug for the temp sensor directly behind. You may have to push some of the insulation of out of way. Unplug the old sensor and pull it back out directly through the sensor opening. Take the new sensor and thread it in through the opening and plug it in. Reinstall the circulator fan and then screw the new sensor in place. This should complete the temp sensor replacement.

Removed both oven doors to remove from the wall. Pulled the oven out of the wall. Removed all the sheet metal backing on the back of oven top and bottom. Removed the electrical,connections to the fan. Removed attach,net screws and pulled the fan. A bit of a pain had to twist pull and bend the metal bracket. Replacement fan had to be reversed came apart easily and reversed then reassembled. Fit in easily and attached electrical connections. Then reattached all the sheet metal backing bottom then top. Put oven back in wall then secured in place. Re installed the doors and applied power. Oven worked great as soon as we tested it. Great fix, works better than new!

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.

I removed the 2 screws holding the sensor in the back of the oven and pulled the wires out. The connector got hung up in the insulation. Rather than pulling too hard, I loosened up the heating element plate and screws and pulled the whole plate out an inch or so so I could work the connector through the insulation. I forgot to shut off the power. When I put the sensor on, I got the same error. I briefly shut off the power at the breaker and turned it back on. The clock on the oven did not reset. It still didn't work. So I took the whole thing out, shut off the power, reconnected it, turned the power back on, reset the clock, and it worked! Should have turned the power off first and I wouldn't have had to do it twice.

Once you figure out how to pop the little clips that lock the hinges in place this is not a difficult repair. But, it is tedious due to all the screws on the door.

Fold the door down and look for the tabs on the clips just above the hinge connections. You should able to push the tabs back and down with your fingers. If they are stuck use a flat blade screw driver or pair of pliers. Lift the door straight up and pull back. The hinges may pop (loud) while doing this. Set the door on the floor and proceed to remove the inner door by unscrewing all the sheet metal and machine screws. Lift the inner door out and the two hinges are accessible on either side. There are two black machine screws on the bottom of the inner door that hold each hinge in place. Unscrew those and the hinges come right out. Take the same black machine screws and use them to cut the threads into the new hinges. Remove the screws and install the new hinges. Use the black machine screws to attach the new hinges to the inner door. Reinstall the inner door to the outer. Lift the door assembly back in place on the hinge connectors at the oven. Then, don't forget to push the locking tabs back in place. The hinge replacement is complete.

I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.

I tryed to remove the sensor from the oven by removing the screws inside the oven. Unfortunatly, the plug for the sensor would not reach the inside of the oven. I had to remove the oven from the wall and remove the back cover to ac3ess the sensor wiring.
After that it was a snap.

Didn't need sensor replaced. After turning the breaker switch back on oven appeared to be working fine.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

First I removed the oven door - with door fully open pull the clips on the hinges all the way out, then close door as far as it will go and lift the door up and off the oven.

Then I removed the three screws on each side, that hold the oven to the wooden cabinet. I then slid the oven unit out from the cabinet about 6 inches, to gain access to the hinge receptacles.

I then removed the 2 screws that secure the receptables to the oven body, and replaced the receptacles.

Reverse steps to put it back together.

Works like a charm.