Models > JKP90SP4SS

JKP90SP4SS General Electric Microwave Oven Combo

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Manuals & Guides for JKP90SP4SS

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$15.76
This ceramic microwave fuse is just over an inch in length. It is white in the center, and metal on both ends. This is a 20-amp fuse, and is used to power your microwave. If the touch pad on the micro...
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If your oven is running hot, not heating evenly, not coming up to temperature, or just not heating up at all, there may be an issue with the temperature sensor. This sensor is usually found in the bac...
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This secondary door switch is also known as a micro switch, and it is a genuine OEM replacement part for your microwave. The switch communicates with the electronic control board, to let it know if th...
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This roller is located underneath the glass turntable. With the help of the motor, this roller helps to rotate the glass tray. This part takes the place of the coupling.
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This light bulb is used in the interior oven. NOTE: This bulb has looped pins, not the straight pins.
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This part allows power to go one way only.
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$11.23
This screw is sold individually.
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$6.25
Sold Individually.
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This part is a replacement screw for your oven. It is made of black metal and is sold individually. This screw is approximately 1/4 inch in diameter and about 1/2 inch in length. It is designed to con...
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$248.25
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$6.51
This screw is sold individually. Size 8-18 x 3/4
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Common Problems and Symptoms for JKP90SP4SS

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No heat
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Won’t turn on
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Doesn’t shut off
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Little to no heat when baking
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Tray won’t turn
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Oven not heating evenly
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Touchpad does not respond
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Oven is too hot
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Element will not heat
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Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when broiling
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  • Customer:
    Kim from Cliffside Park, NJ
  • Parts Used:
    WB27X10928
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
Microwave completely stopped working
Turned out the issue was easily solved by replacing a single, inexpensive fuse.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
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  • Customer:
    Marla from Arlington, TX
  • Parts Used:
    WB24X829
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
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  • Customer:
    Peter from stamford, CT
  • Parts Used:
    WB21X22134
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
Oven would go in to a F2 Error
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
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