JT930BH3BB General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Theodore from Medical Lake, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10597
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Not working as far as heating or cooking
Replaced High Voltage Diode. Very carfully due to the extream danger of a electrical shock.
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- Customer:
- kevin from miami, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB48X10056, WB07T10401
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
missing trim and trim bracket
Attatched trim bracket to cabniet with screws that by the way were not supplied then attached plastic trim to bracket
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- Customer:
- Devin from HERRIMAN, UT
- Parts Used:
- WB27X11079
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Microwave would run but not heat.
It wasn’t the magnetron.
It wasn’t the diode.
It wasn’t just the fuse.
It was the High Voltage Capacitor (HVC). You know, the very thing they warn you about when opening the microwave. Just remember to discharge it using needle-nose pliers before probing around to find the problem. I also suggest you invest in a multimeter so as not to waste hundreds of dollars like I did; that way you can go straight to the real problem instead of replacing symptoms. If you replace the HVC, you will also want to replace the two fuses right in front of it. Also, there is a wiring diagram and a troubleshooting flowchart tucked behind the front console near the top. It is extremely useful!
It wasn’t the diode.
It wasn’t just the fuse.
It was the High Voltage Capacitor (HVC). You know, the very thing they warn you about when opening the microwave. Just remember to discharge it using needle-nose pliers before probing around to find the problem. I also suggest you invest in a multimeter so as not to waste hundreds of dollars like I did; that way you can go straight to the real problem instead of replacing symptoms. If you replace the HVC, you will also want to replace the two fuses right in front of it. Also, there is a wiring diagram and a troubleshooting flowchart tucked behind the front console near the top. It is extremely useful!
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- Customer:
- Glen from Highland, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB20X10003
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
ove black out
must of had loose connection from wire terminal
to thermostat from factory. thermostat and wires
were melted. removed thermostat. and cut burnt
wires back. replaced thermostat and terminals.
used better quality terminals than factory.
also checked and tightened other loose connections. there was enough wire left after cut back to just put on new terminals.
to thermostat from factory. thermostat and wires
were melted. removed thermostat. and cut burnt
wires back. replaced thermostat and terminals.
used better quality terminals than factory.
also checked and tightened other loose connections. there was enough wire left after cut back to just put on new terminals.
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- Customer:
- Micheal from SHEPHERDSVLLE, KY
- Parts Used:
- WB56T10105
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Inner oven door glass broke
Pull the old one put in the new one ... took about 20 minutes
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- Customer:
- Rose from BEND, OR
- Parts Used:
- WB56T10105
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Replace window pack assembly
This door required a lot more screws to be removed in order to remove the inside window assembly. I counted a total of 19 screws. That is why the estimated time is 30-60 minutes.
- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
- remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
- remove door from range following the basic guide to removing any range door.
- place door on work surface with the outside facing down.
- remove three 1/4 socket screws from bottom and two star screws on top.
- Flip door over, remove outer door panel and set aside.
- There will be a separate pane of glass that needs to be removed. Remove 1/4 socket screws holding glass and set aside.
- Slide door over your work surface edge so you can remove the star screws holding the door hinges (from underneath). You could flip the door over but the door would have to be flipped back once the hinges were removed.
- Remove the remaining 1/4 screws holding the aluminum shielding.
- Remove the shielding being careful not to disturb the insulation around the window.
- Remove the damaged window. Take note of the writing and orientation on the aluminum window frame. (upper right if hinges were on the bottom)
- Set the new window in its place.
- Reverse the process by replacing the aluminum shield, hinges, than internal glass pane.
- Set outer door on top and holding everything together, flip door.
- Tighten the two star screws on top and the three 1/4 socket screws on the bottom.
- Replace door. Don't forget to lift up those hinge tabs before trying to close the door.
All done. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
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- Customer:
- Christie from NAPERVILLE, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB49X29679
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
bulb burnt out
turned off power to oven; pulled out old bulb (unscrewed glass cover to access). Noted the direction of the electrical prongs when pulled bulb out... and inserted new bulb. Turned back on power to oven - bulb worked
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- Customer:
- William from LAKE ELSINORE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB27X10597
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Microwave wasn't heating up foods
Per instructions on part select.com website. But needs further repair because still doesn't heat food and pad is partially disabled.
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- Customer:
- marc from PARK RIDGE, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB56T10105
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broker inner glass
Very easy to remove the parts and to reassemble
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- Customer:
- Letty from KERRVILLE, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB49X29679
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Oven light
I'm well past ninety and my sweet daughter inserted the tiny prongs. I was delighted to find a place that had the bulbs. Thank goodness for the internet ! (I'm not too old for that)
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- Customer:
- Richard from Gorham, ME
- Parts Used:
- WB56T10105
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set, Wrench set
Inner glass assembly had cracked
Took the oven door off and removed the inner door panel, put new glass assembly part in and reassembled. The hard part was getting the door hinges locked back into place.
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- Customer:
- John from COVINGTON, GA
- Parts Used:
- WB20X10003
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bad thermostat
Removed outer case, checked fuse first, it was good so went to thermostat. No continuity reading. Unhooked thermostat, used jumper wires to by-pass break—briefly plugged the unit in. It came on so I knew the issue was definitely the thermostat.
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- Customer:
- Mark from OLIVE BRANCH, MS
- Parts Used:
- WB56T10105
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Inner glass broke
Removed torx screws for door handle as well as torx screws for both hinges to separate the door halves to extract broken glass and to install new glass panel. Other reviews said not to remove hinge screws, however I had no problem reinstalling them.
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- Customer:
- DANIEL from STAMFORD, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB49X29679
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
OVEN LIGHT OUT
REMOVED 2 SCREWS AND LOWERED LIGHT ASSEMBLY. UNPLUGGED THE OLD ONE, AND REPLACED IT WITH THE ITEM SENT TO ME
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- Customer:
- William from FRANKLIN, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB49X29679
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Halogen oven light burned out. When trying to remove old bulb, it broke off.
First, I turned off the power. I removed the fixture that held the bulb and gently used narrow type pliers to pull the old pins out and allowed the broken glass to fall upon a shop towel in the bottom of the oven.
The replacement bulb and different type of wiring connections. I cut and formed them to fit the receptacle. I gently inserted the new bulb, placed the glass cover back on. Then, screwed the unit back into the top of the oven.
Happily, when power was turned back on the light shone brightly!
The replacement bulb and different type of wiring connections. I cut and formed them to fit the receptacle. I gently inserted the new bulb, placed the glass cover back on. Then, screwed the unit back into the top of the oven.
Happily, when power was turned back on the light shone brightly!
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