JBV42G*04 General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

There are about 12 wires behind the panel...and this was the second time I've replaced the electronic clock in the past four years. I replaced the analog clock four years ago with the digital version because the analog was no longer available, so I knew what I was in for. There are four screw (top of the frame and lower frame) to remove before the frame holding the clock will come out. First DISCONNECT the power! You've have to remove the clock control knobs, and the plastic lever on the self cleaning handle. The first time I ordered this replacement part from PartsSelect there was a diagram included on which wire goes where. This time there wasn't! So it gets a little complicated. Make sure you label all the wired before you disconnect the old clock panel. Anyway, remove the four nuts holding the old clock in place; put the new clock panel in; replace the four nuts. I'll be glad to talk anyone through the rest and I have photos of the whole repair.

Followed the instruction provided except had to add a NEUTRAL LEAD which on the old part had been provided by the frame as it was metal/ electrical vs plastic/electronic . Used one of the extra Wire Extensions provided, drilled a hole in the clip connection and attached it to the metal frame holding in the replacement clock. The need for a NEUTRAL LEAD was not discussed in the instructions.

This digital timer, GE Part # WB19X10006 (PartSelect PS233996) is called out by GE as the current replacement for the mechanical timer in the JB500G*J1 range. I had tried to get one some time ago from another dealer but was told it was discontinued and no longer available, so I was pretty happy to come across it in the PartSelect catalog.

It comes with a number of mounting brackets and instructions to use the brackets that resemble the old parts, but when I did that the control buttons did not line up with the holes in the glass and were offset about 1/4" to the left. It was impossible to simply slide the timer over that far because it bumped into the underlying metal frame. I ended up using a longer set of brackets which lifted the timer about 1/2" off the glass, thereby avoiding interference with the frame, and bent the brackets sideways to line up with the holes in the glass. But then a transformer on the new timer stuck out about 1/4" too far in back to get the rear cover back on. I made two vertical cuts in the rear cover from the edge down past the timer and bent the resulting flap around the transformer. The resulting installation looks like it was made that way and works great.

1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.

I studied the drawings on the instruction sheet off and on for about 3 hours. I'm 76 and my memory and ability to identify the relevant parts of the old and replacement clock as depicted on the drawings aren't what they were a few decades ago. I took my time studying this until I was confident that I knew which wires needed to go on which terminals on the new clock module. It took me a while to figure out which side (left or right) of the drawing for the old and new clocks were at the end of the module and which side was adjacent to the rest of the module. Careful study of the drawings and examinations of the modules cleared this up. It also took me some time to figure out if the top or bottom of the drawings as depicted on the paper matched up with the top and bottom of the modules when viewed from the front of the oven. After this became clear removal of the wires from the old module (I labeled all of them with masking tape, for example, as L1, L2, common or neutral, Output 1 and Output 2) and placement on the new module was quite straight forward. I then covered all bare wires with the rubber insulators or electricians tape. However, the clock didn't light up when the panel was reassembled and the power was turned back on. I hired a local appliance technician to examine my work. He found 2 wires touching that weren't supposed to be touching where they plugged into the module. After separating them and turning on the power the clock has worked perfectly. The metal bracket on my oven worked with the new clock module. I didn't have to use any of the new brackets that came with the new clock. A few other manageable problems: I needed a torx screwdriver I didn't have to remove 3 screws holding the panel holding the oven dials and clock module on to the oven. A neighbor provided the needed screwdriver. I cut my index finger when removing the black knob attached to the lever used to lock the oven during cleaning. A band aid stopped the bleeding and allowed work to continue. The spring fitting over the end of the lever that wedges the black handle in place cut my finger. I'll use a pliers or protect my fingers with a towel the next time when removing this knob. I had a few hiccups doing this task but am thoroughly pleased with the end result.

PS240270
Ceramic Fuse - 15 Amp
Easy installation , remove microwave cover housing ,locate fuse by door catch & replace..
Received quickly..
Replaced fuse , removed microwave cover housing , located fuse adjacent door catch removed & installed new fuse...

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

With the parts we received from Parts Select I took the frame off the upper oven (about 8 screws), screwed in the new striker parts and closer, replaced the frame and tried the oven door. It closed beautifully, the repair was totally successful. Thanks for the parts and the quick delivery. At the local GE store they didn't think they could order the parts and if they could, it would cost about $75.00. The Parts Select parts cost about $25.00 and the repair was done in less than 1/2 hour! Thanks!!

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.

Replace part an wires

New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!

First I pulled the heating elements from sockets
Removed 1/4 " screw from socket brackets.
Removed two wires from socket , reversed procedure, tested , work fine ,wife happy, me happy.
Parts were delivered in 3 days.

First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.