JBV42G*01 General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

There are about 12 wires behind the panel...and this was the second time I've replaced the electronic clock in the past four years. I replaced the analog clock four years ago with the digital version because the analog was no longer available, so I knew what I was in for. There are four screw (top of the frame and lower frame) to remove before the frame holding the clock will come out. First DISCONNECT the power! You've have to remove the clock control knobs, and the plastic lever on the self cleaning handle. The first time I ordered this replacement part from PartsSelect there was a diagram included on which wire goes where. This time there wasn't! So it gets a little complicated. Make sure you label all the wired before you disconnect the old clock panel. Anyway, remove the four nuts holding the old clock in place; put the new clock panel in; replace the four nuts. I'll be glad to talk anyone through the rest and I have photos of the whole repair.

Followed the instruction provided except had to add a NEUTRAL LEAD which on the old part had been provided by the frame as it was metal/ electrical vs plastic/electronic . Used one of the extra Wire Extensions provided, drilled a hole in the clip connection and attached it to the metal frame holding in the replacement clock. The need for a NEUTRAL LEAD was not discussed in the instructions.

This digital timer, GE Part # WB19X10006 (PartSelect PS233996) is called out by GE as the current replacement for the mechanical timer in the JB500G*J1 range. I had tried to get one some time ago from another dealer but was told it was discontinued and no longer available, so I was pretty happy to come across it in the PartSelect catalog.

It comes with a number of mounting brackets and instructions to use the brackets that resemble the old parts, but when I did that the control buttons did not line up with the holes in the glass and were offset about 1/4" to the left. It was impossible to simply slide the timer over that far because it bumped into the underlying metal frame. I ended up using a longer set of brackets which lifted the timer about 1/2" off the glass, thereby avoiding interference with the frame, and bent the brackets sideways to line up with the holes in the glass. But then a transformer on the new timer stuck out about 1/4" too far in back to get the rear cover back on. I made two vertical cuts in the rear cover from the edge down past the timer and bent the resulting flap around the transformer. The resulting installation looks like it was made that way and works great.

I studied the drawings on the instruction sheet off and on for about 3 hours. I'm 76 and my memory and ability to identify the relevant parts of the old and replacement clock as depicted on the drawings aren't what they were a few decades ago. I took my time studying this until I was confident that I knew which wires needed to go on which terminals on the new clock module. It took me a while to figure out which side (left or right) of the drawing for the old and new clocks were at the end of the module and which side was adjacent to the rest of the module. Careful study of the drawings and examinations of the modules cleared this up. It also took me some time to figure out if the top or bottom of the drawings as depicted on the paper matched up with the top and bottom of the modules when viewed from the front of the oven. After this became clear removal of the wires from the old module (I labeled all of them with masking tape, for example, as L1, L2, common or neutral, Output 1 and Output 2) and placement on the new module was quite straight forward. I then covered all bare wires with the rubber insulators or electricians tape. However, the clock didn't light up when the panel was reassembled and the power was turned back on. I hired a local appliance technician to examine my work. He found 2 wires touching that weren't supposed to be touching where they plugged into the module. After separating them and turning on the power the clock has worked perfectly. The metal bracket on my oven worked with the new clock module. I didn't have to use any of the new brackets that came with the new clock. A few other manageable problems: I needed a torx screwdriver I didn't have to remove 3 screws holding the panel holding the oven dials and clock module on to the oven. A neighbor provided the needed screwdriver. I cut my index finger when removing the black knob attached to the lever used to lock the oven during cleaning. A band aid stopped the bleeding and allowed work to continue. The spring fitting over the end of the lever that wedges the black handle in place cut my finger. I'll use a pliers or protect my fingers with a towel the next time when removing this knob. I had a few hiccups doing this task but am thoroughly pleased with the end result.

I had already removed the terminal block assembly, a total of three screws. When the part arrived it was as simple as connecting the two wires in the back of the assembly (power turned off!) then one screw to attach the assembly to the stove top. Power back on and a brand new burner. The same day I went and ordered four drip pans to replace the old ones and the stove looks like new.
Finding the part at the on-line site was the best part since I tried two other sites that were not very easy.

Unplugged the elements and removed the corroded drip pans and replaced them with the the new ones, which fit perfectly.

Drilled out the screw on one wire as it was corroded to the metal socket. Sanded both wire terminations. Installed wires into terminal block. Reassembled all loose parts and installed into burner slot. Worked perfectly.

The terminal blocks become brittle and carbonized with age resulting in very poor contact with the electric burners. The burners lose capacity to heat fully and eventually stop working.

Unplug the stove first! There is a risk of dangerous electrical shock if the power is not disconnected.

Repair involves removing the burner and the drip cup to expose the terminal block. Remove one screw on top to detach the block from the stove top. Remove the insulating cover and the clip that holds it in place on the back of the block. Detatch the two wires. At this point the age and brittleness of the blocks became apparent as they crumbled in my hand while removing the terminal screws. One screw had several layers of carbonization covering it and required needle nose pliers to get a firm grip in order to loosen it.

Inspect the wires to make sure there are no holes or cracks in the insulation.

Attach the wires to the new terminal block using the new screws provided. The new kit also included quick lock screw fastener clips to place over the holes in the stove top. It's a good idea to use these for more secure mounting and better grounding. Place the new terminal block under the stove top and mount it with the new screw provided. I had to unbend the mounting clip slightly to get it to fit, but it was easy enough to do with bare fingers.

Replace the drip pan and the burner. Plug the stove back in.

A pot of water now boils in under a minute compared to the 5 to 10 minutes it used to take.

Removed the old drip pans and put the new ones in.

Removed old terminal block by removing one mounting screw. Removed two wires from block. Installed new terminal block by reversing procedure.

Unplugged oven from mains.

Removed screw holding terminal block to oven top. Used screwdriver to remove clip holding protective card to terminal block. Removed Philips screws holding wires onto terminal block.

Replacing the terminal block was just doing the above instructions in reverse. The only thing different was to put the speed clip on the range top before attaching the block to the range top.

I removed the burner, then the chrome dish. The nuts for the wires were rusted to the terminals, so I had to break the module apart and grind the nuts off.After that the new module went fine.

I turned off the circut breaker and disconnected the old terminal block - some difficulty removing the wires because of corrsion - I was able to reconnect the wires to the new block quickly and I was done - fast and easy - so happy to have found the part so easily with your program. Thank you

The only hard part of the job is removing the old, corroded terminal block. Be careful not to break the electrical wire. Other than that, just sand the contacts and reassemble. This is the second one I have replace on my 4 burner stove. 2 more to go.

Replaced old drip bowls with the new ones. Very simple, no tools required.