Models > JBV42G*J1

JBV42G*J1 General Electric Microwave Oven Combo

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This trim ring is an authentic OEM replacement part for your range. It serves as a decorative trim to the drip bowls found under the burner elements. The part will need to be replaced if it has become...
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This 8-inch trim ring is a genuine OEM replacement part for your range. It sits around the surface burner elements for the style of ranges with low rise tilt lock burners. You may need to replace the ...
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This Y-frame six inch surface burner element has five turns and a metallic center medallion.
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This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
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The infinite switch controls the stove top surface burner. This switch will work with most of the electrical range models with coil burner elements.
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This kit includes one ceramic block with 6" wire leads, 2 wire nuts and 2 heat shrink with mounting bracket.
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This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
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This is a broiler pan for your range. It catches drippings from the cookware, when broiling in the oven. This assembly includes the grill/grate and the bottom pan. These parts are made of porcelain. T...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for JBV42G*J1

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Element will not heat
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Won’t turn on
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Timer will not advance
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Customer:
David from Owings Mills, MD
Parts Used:
WB19X10006
Difficulty Level:
Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Electronic Timer went out and Top Oven No Longer worked
There are about 12 wires behind the panel...and this was the second time I've replaced the electronic clock in the past four years. I replaced the analog clock four years ago with the digital version because the analog was no longer available, so I knew what I was in for. There are four screw (top of the frame and lower frame) to remove b efore the frame holding the clock will come out. First DISCONNECT the power! You've have to remove the clock control knobs, and the plastic lever on the self cleaning handle. The first time I ordered this replacement part from PartsSelect there was a diagram included on which wire goes where. This time there wasn't! So it gets a little complicated. Make sure you label all the wired before you disconnect the old clock panel. Anyway, remove the four nuts holding the old clock in place; put the new clock panel in; replace the four nuts. I'll be glad to talk anyone through the rest and I have photos of the whole repair.
60 of 73 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Joseph from South Plainfield, NJ
Parts Used:
WB30M2, WB30M1
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Replacement of Coils
Removed by slightly wiggling out of the coupling. No tools needed, seriously, (and I'm a contractor). Basically, pull out and snap back in.
35 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Richard from Apex, NC
Parts Used:
WB30M2, WB17X5113
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Heating element required continuous adjustments to work.
I removed old 8" surface element and terminal block. Some of old wiring had to be cut off because of harding/cracking of old wiring. Stove was 23 years old and this burner was the most frequently used one. I soldered the new and remaining old wires together. I used the shirnk wrap that came with the terminal block to cover the solder join t. I screwed the new terminal block (one screw holds it in place - used same screw from old terminal block that was removed). I finished by inserting the new surface element. Everything works fine. In the next week or two after we use it a while, I will check wiring again to make sure there are no changes. You need to be very careful as it gets very hot under the burner.
29 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
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