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LAT8014ABL
LAT8014ABL Maytag Washer
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Diagrams for LAT8014ABL
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$21.82
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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$22.91
This lid or door switch kit helps ensure your washer or dryer only runs when the door is properly closed. It’s a safety feature that prevents spills and keeps your appliance working as it should. The ...
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This washing machine lid hinge ball is well under an inch in diameter. These hinge balls are sold separately, though two are required per lid. This lid hinge ball is made of plastic and is used for Ma...
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This black lid switch assembly comes complete with a bracket, two switches, and a fuse. An open fuse might indicate that the lid switch is bad. The point of the lid switch is for the tub to stop spin...
No Longer Available
$7.60
This washing machine lid bumper is just under an inch long. It is all gray in color and is made entirely of rubber.
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This lid switch actuator spring is exactly one inch long. It is made of metal.
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When this part is used along with the lid switch, it can tell the motor of the washer to stop when a load is uneven. The washer will not start up until the lid is opened and then closed again.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for LAT8014ABL
Viewing 5 of 5Will Not Start
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Will not agitate
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Will not drain
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Lid or door won’t close
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Won’t Start
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How to fix it
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- Customer:
- Suleman from Canoga Park, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP207166
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
Washer was dead and would not turn on
Well the washer died and would not turn on in the middle of a wash cycle. Absolutely dead. I disconnected it from power and opened up the front panel on which all the control switches and knobs are mounted. This is removed by unscrewing 4 screws at the top of the washer.
Checked the fuse, and found blown. Replaced the fuse, cl ... Read more osed the panel and plugged it in. Still not working. Checked the Check switches and found the Check Switch really limp. Checked with Digital Multimeter and found no continuity at either position. Unscrewed the check switch. Removal and re inspection with DMM of the check switch confirmed it was bad. Opened up the check switch and found contacts were blown.
Installed a new check switch making sure all the connecting wires go in the right places. The wiring diagram in the washer was very helpful in doing so since u dont want these wires reversed. Adjusted the plunger which operates the check switches when the lid is opened to make sure it is not over or under operating the switches. This is done by loosening the bolt holding down the check switch assembly and slidint the whole assembly forwards or backwards till the plunger has just enough push on the switches. This is done to avoid the plunger from exerting excessive pressure on the check switch and the safety switch in lid open or lid closed position. (both switches are operated by the same plunger according to the lid position)
Closed panel cover and plugged the washer in. There u go, it was alive again!
Checked the fuse, and found blown. Replaced the fuse, cl ... Read more osed the panel and plugged it in. Still not working. Checked the Check switches and found the Check Switch really limp. Checked with Digital Multimeter and found no continuity at either position. Unscrewed the check switch. Removal and re inspection with DMM of the check switch confirmed it was bad. Opened up the check switch and found contacts were blown.
Installed a new check switch making sure all the connecting wires go in the right places. The wiring diagram in the washer was very helpful in doing so since u dont want these wires reversed. Adjusted the plunger which operates the check switches when the lid is opened to make sure it is not over or under operating the switches. This is done by loosening the bolt holding down the check switch assembly and slidint the whole assembly forwards or backwards till the plunger has just enough push on the switches. This is done to avoid the plunger from exerting excessive pressure on the check switch and the safety switch in lid open or lid closed position. (both switches are operated by the same plunger according to the lid position)
Closed panel cover and plugged the washer in. There u go, it was alive again!
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- Customer:
- Richard from Houston, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP22001682
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
The washer wouldn't start unless you slammed the lid shut.
I suspected the lid switch right away. Where I went wrong was in thinking that I had to get to it from below. After going to all the trouble of removing the front panel and detaching the top panel, I discovered that it was located inside the control section at the top of the appliance. It only took a few minutes to remove four screws and
... Read more
gain access to the old switch assembly and swap it out with the new one. One thing to note; the new switch assembly has to be set in exactly the right place along a slotted channel in order for both contacts to be activated properly. It's not difficult to find the right spot, but you have to do it consciously.
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- Customer:
- Basil from St Charles, MO
- Parts Used:
- WP22001682
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Filled with water OK but nothing more
Used the online trouble shooting info. Tested as was requested. Found the lid switch. Noticed the fuse was bad. Replaced the fuse and noticed only water was cominf in. Ordered new lid switch assembly. Came with 48 hrs! Replaced and washed clothes! Great service!
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