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GT1721NECW
GT1721NECW Maytag Refrigerator
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Diagrams for GT1721NECW
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$18.54
This is an end cap for the shelf retainer bar on your fridge door. This genuine OEM part is white in color and made of plastic. The end cap can be used for either the left or right side of the retaine...
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$53.58
This refrigerator door shelf trim is approximately 28 inches long. It is all white in color, and it is made entirely of metal. NOTE: The image may not be of the exact product but will function properly.
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This clip-on thermostat will sense the temperature increase in the evaporator during the defrost cycle and will cycle the defrost heater off after the ice or frost is melted.
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$37.49
This lower hinge pin is just over an inch long. It is black in color and is made of plastic. It is located on the bottom part of the door hinge.
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$13.07
This hinge washer is an inch in diameter. It is all black in color and is made of plastic. Sold individually.
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This clear fresh food control knob is almost three inches in diameter. There is blue numbering around the perimeter of the knob denoting the level of coldness inside the refrigerator.
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$74.30
This thermostat cuts out at 38 degrees Fahrenheit. The thermostat will sense the temperature increase in the evaporator during the defrost cycle and will cycle the defrost heater off after the ice or frost is melted.
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$7.60
This screw is less than an inch long, and is made entirely of metal. Sold individually.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for GT1721NECW
Viewing 12 of 12Light not working
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Freezer not defrosting
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Leaking
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Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Frost buildup
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge runs too long
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Too warm
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How to fix it
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- Customer:
- Clint from Rayville, MO
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
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- Customer:
- Edwin from Maplewood, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WP4387503
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
water dripping inside fridge due to drain hole being frozen over wiith ice.
first I diagnosed the problem with the whirlpool do-it-yourself repair manual, which was very easy to understand. as per the repair manual, "this part located on the evaporator or the back of the liner is used during the defrost cycle. This bimetal senses the temperature from the evaporator. When the temperature reaches 50-70 degrees (F)
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the defrost bimetal turnd the defrost heater off. " then I emptied the freezer. removed the the back panel to expose the evaporator. I looked for the bimetal defrost thermostat clipped on the evaporator. tested the bi-metal defrost thermostat, as per the manual, " the ohmmeter should show ZERO resistance (continuity). if not, the bimetal is bad and needs replacing." NOTE: the bimetal must be cold. it is also tested with the bimetal warm/hot, by running it under hot water. i used a styrofoam cup with hot water & dipped the bimetal in. as per the manual, " the ohmmeter should show an open circuit. if not, the bimetal is bad and needs replacing. then got online found partselect.com. ordered the part, recieved it in less than 2 days. within minutes after recieving the part, I removed the bimetal defrost thermostat and spliced in the new one. thanks to partselect.com my fridge is back up and running properly again. prior to installing the new bimetal, i tested it, as descibed above, you can hear & feel the bimetal open/close when it gets hot/cold.
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- Customer:
- James Richard from St. Cloud, MN
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Light Switch broke
An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only
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swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.
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