Models > 7MMVWB855EC3

7MMVWB855EC3 Maytag Washer

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If your washer isn’t filling properly or is leaking near the back, this inlet valve might be the problem. It controls how hot and cold water enter your machine during the wash cycle. With two inlets a...
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This washing machine cleaner includes three time-release tablets designed to remove odor-causing residues, grime, and buildup from high-efficiency and top-load washing machines. The tablets work by cl...
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This hose clamp is sold individually.
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The drain hose carries used water from the washer to your house drain.
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Sold individually.
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$105.36
Designed specifically for top-load washing machines, this drain pump ensures efficient water removal during the drain cycle by directing it from the washer tub into your home's plumbing system via the...
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$49.29
This clutch slider kit is part of the washer’s transmission system, helping control the agitator’s speed and direction during wash and spin cycles. It includes the clutch band, slider, and lock ring. ...
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This lid hinge is a genuine OEM replacement part for your washing machine. This hinge is for the left side of your lid, although it is a good idea to replace btoh hinges at once. The hinge holds up th...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 7MMVWB855EC3

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Leaking
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Water Filling Issues
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Lid or door won’t close
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Will not agitate
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Will not drain
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Shaking and Moving
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Spinning Issues
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No hot or cold water
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Draining Issues
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Will Not Start
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Locking Issues
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Noisy and Marks Left on Clothes
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Cycle Not Advancing
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Spins slowly
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Customer:
Brian from FAIRBORN, OH
Parts Used:
W11165546
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers
Water Inlet Valve inoperative
Washer would start cycle and return a CL error. No water would flow into the tub. Researched problem and probable cause. Ordered new water inlet valve. Once received, disconnected water hoses and electric plug and removed rear upper access panel (5 screws). Used thin putty knife under sides of front control panel to disengage spring clips . Once access to the faulty valve was attained, removed electrical harness and valve mounting screws. Installation of new valve was reverse process. Figuring out how to raise the front panel for access to the valve was most difficult. Found a YouTube video showing how; it was easy from there. Entire replacement took about 30 mins max.
17 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Marian from GREYBULL, WY
Parts Used:
W11165546
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Faulty fill valve
Did troubleshooting after code LF showed on indicator window. Did troubleshooting; checked hoses for obstructions and small filters on inlets. All good. Ordered new fill valve. Came in a few days, good service.
Removed control panel top by removing screws on back of control panel, then by pushing putty knife under each side to rele ase spring clips. Carefully lifted cover and set onto lid. Photographed fill valve at left side as you are standing in front of machine. Removed screws with small ratchet. Carefully removed wires via clips. Lifted out valve.
Attached wires to new, set back into its place, replaced screws, tightened but not too tight so as to break part. Replaced control panel, pushing downward to engage spring clips, then replace screws on back.
Re attached hoses, ensuring they were on the correct sides, plugged machine into power, ran through cycle and VIOLA!! Worked perfectly!! After a couple weeks, still working perfectly! Was VERY happy it was only fill valve and not mother board as the cost was a fraction.
I found trouble shooting videos to be very helpful. Your service quite good.
15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Thomas from MILLBURY, OH
Parts Used:
W10752187
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Worn out splines connecting transmission driveshaft to agitator.
DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.
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