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MED5630HC1
MED5630HC1 Maytag Dryer
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$60.49
When connected to electricity the dryer heating element glows red hot and generates heat. When air is blown over it, it heats the air which is used to dry the clothes. The heating element fits inside ...
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$39.63
The Whirlpool Dryer Repair Kit is a genuine OEM maintenance kit designed to resolve common issues such as squeaking, thumping, or poor drum rotation in 27-inch dryers. This all-in-one kit is compatibl...
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$19.63
This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. This part is sold separ...
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$27.28
Often referred to as a dryer belt tension pulley wheel, this idler pulley is an OEM approved replacement part for a variety of dryer models. The idler pulley puts tension on the drive belt, and if the...
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$25.10
This is a single dryer drum belt that measures 93.5 inches. The belt rotates the dryer drum and is a common wear part that can become brittle over time. It can also stretch and change shape, so keep t...
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The internal-bias thermostat, also know as a thermistor, is used to prevent the dryer from overheating. It does this by monitoring and controlling the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum. If ...
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$11.98
This small but mighty OEM piece is called a tri-ring and is used to support the drum roller shaft and the idler pulley shaft in your dryer. It helps to provide a tight seal between components by evenl...
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$6.51
It is important for your dryer to be properly leveled, as an unleveled one can cause excessive vibration and noise when operating, may not drain properly, and can cause excessive wear on various parts...
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$27.83
If your dryer is not tumbling, will not start, or is excessively noisy while operating, there may be an issue with your idler pulley. The idler pulley works by maintaining a constant tension on the dr...
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$9.79
This is an authentic OEM replacement moisture sensor for your dryer. The sensor detects the moisture levels in your clothing while the appliance is operating, and once the appropriate level has been r...
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This heating element connection wire kit is a genuine OEM replacement for your electric dryer. The kit is used to connect the thermostat to the heater element. The kit comes with a yellow wire nut and...
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This part seals the drum to prevents air from escaping. This includes silicone rubber adhesive.
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Jon
September 11, 2022
It tripped my breaker on startup. Now it has no heat?
For model number MED5630HC1
Hi Jon, thank you for contacting us. If your dryer trips off your breaker, we recommend checking your Circuit Breaker first. A weak circuit breaker may trip too often, even if the amperage draw is below the limit. Sometimes, a faulty heating element shorts out the heater housing, causing the dryer to trip the circuit breaker. To determine if the heating element is at fault, use a multimeter to test each terminal for continuity to the case. A shorted heating element will have continuity to the case. If the heating element is shorted out, replace it. You will also need to check the drive motor. If the drive motor fails, it shorts out internally, causing the dryer to trip the circuit breaker. To determine if the drive motor is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the motor windings are shorted out, replace the drive motor. Check the dryer's terminal block. Electric dryer power cords attach to the dryer at a terminal block. Ensure there are no loose wires. Loose wires can short out against the body of the dryer, causing the dryer to trip the circuit breaker. Let us know if you have further questions!
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Jay
May 27, 2023
Changed heating element still not heating
For model number MED5630HC1
vents are clogged. Remove vent from your dryer and vacuum the lint and debris inside it. Or, it may be a Blown Thermal Cut-Off with High Limit Thermostat FIX991443. Once the dryer temperature reaches a certain point, this piece will shut down power to the heating element. We are pleased to have been able to help.
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Jay
June 7, 2023
I have replaced heating element and thermal and high heat cutoff and it is still not heating
For model number MED5630HC1
Hello Jay, thank you for contacting us. We have researched the model and would suggest checking the thermistor, part number FIX11746740, for continuity using a multimeter. This thermistor should read approximately 11.9K Ohms of resistance at 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21’ Celsius). The thermistor monitor and controls the temperature inside the dryer drum. A faulty thermistor may cause the dryer to not heat. We hope this information helps!
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Common Problems and Symptoms for MED5630HC1
Viewing 11 of 11Noisy
Fixed by these parts
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Not Heating
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Drum Not Spinning
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Too hot
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Won’t Start
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Door won’t close
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Marks left on clothes
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Lid or door won’t close
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Door Sags
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Touchpad does not respond
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Locking Issues
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How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Alan from Brooksville, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP3387747
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Burned out heater element
Remove the kick plate from the bottom of the dryer by sliding a putty knife along the top edge to release the plastic clamps, one on each side about 4" in from the edges. The kick plate folds out and down. You will see the heat shield on the right, held in by one hex head screw. Remove screw and heat shield. The element is positioned in a
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n open-front housing and is fastened to the left side of the housing by two hex head screws, located on the "rail" of the element and right near the two wires. Remove the hex-head screws that hold the element in place and disconnected the two wires by pulling them out by hand or with needle nose pliers. The only difficulty here is the cramped working area...I recommend a stubby socket driver for these two screws. Most of this I had to do by feel because I could not see the screw heads. Once the screws are out and the wires have been disconnected, slide the old element straight out toward you. You may need to disconnect a small plastic hose located to the left front of the element, but this hose just pulls right off. Vacume the dust & lint build-up out of the whole area, wipe out the element housing and clean up the whole underside of the dryer prior to installing the new element. Installation is reverse of removal. It also might be a good opportunity to clean out your exhaust duct and the vent to the outside. (Never use the aluminum foil-accordian-type duct.) If the exterior dryer vent has any kind of screen over it, remove it and get rid of it. Screens collect lint, lint builds up and burns out elements.
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- Customer:
- jason from HOLDEN, MA
- Parts Used:
- 4392067
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
very loud squeeling sound
The issue was the idler pulley. First I began opening up the front panel based on a youtube video but soon realized the model was slightly different and required a lot more items to remove. I saw the pulley in the back with nothing in the way so I put the front panel crap back on and removed the rear panel. There it was, very simple to re
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move and replace. I'm not looking forward to drum rollers though. Hopefully they're aren't as difficult as they appear.
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- Customer:
- Eddie from PELZER, SC
- Parts Used:
- 4392067
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Squeaky Dryer Noise
I purchased the dryer repair kit with the drum belt, wheels and idler pulley. I watched the instructional videos online and it seemed fairly straight forward. Breaking down the dryer and replacing the pulleys was easy enough. My problem began when I tried to feed the drum belt around the idler pulley. After finishing the job, the dryer wo
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uld not turn and the sensor light stayed on. I thought something else was broken with the dryer and spent hours trouble shooting other problems that I was having. Finally I figured out that the drum belt was not installed correctly around the idler pulley. However, I could not get it properly installed from the front of the machine so I tried from the rear still with no avail. I finally had to fish the old belt out of the garbage can that I had thrown away earlier. I lined up the old belt with the new one in the kit and discovered that the new belt was much smaller, so I put the old one back on the drum. Here's the lesson I learned...make sure the belts are the same size before attempting to install. The old idler was responsible for the squeaking and that stopped but I am still using the same old drum belt. Hope it lasts.
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