96043019700 Jonsered Lawn Tractor - Instructions

Removed old clip removed rim from tractor, removed grease fitting on rim, took hammer and screw driver knocked out old bushing turned rim over knocked out other bushing. Press in new bushings reinstalled grease fitting slide tire back on tractor, put retaining washers on then locking clip put on dust cover grease at grease fitting. Repeat other side.

Had to pull the engine off the rider mower. Drained the oil took shield off the flywheel. Set it upside down on a 5 gal bucket. Took a 7/16 hand wrench to remove governor lever from bottom of engine. Left it in its location. Pulled 10 1/2 " bolts. Split engine case. Found the old governor had broke into pieces. Had to use a magnet to remove all the pieces. Removed the small clip and removed gear. Lubed shaft slid new on put new clip on. Lined governor weights with center piece tapped it in place very lightly. Cleaned gasket flanges pulled the shaft seal. Used the old seal as a seal driver. When putting the cover back on make sure the seal dont roll out. Take a mini screwdriver and tuck it in around shaft. Put bolts back in and tighten like instructions

Look on YouTube for video's on how to replace a Briggs governor. There are several there. My favorite, with best explanation, is, "Easily Replace Briggs Governor Gear (V-Twin Intek Engine) with Taryl". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wn3eanGxSEA&t=152s.

Taryl (probably not his real name) does a very good job of showing step-by-step the whole procedure, along with some additional hints/tricks/techniques of value.

Not including oil and filter, I spent less than $50 for a new governor, gasket, and drive shaft seal. That's all that is really necessary to replace is those three parts. That is, unless pieces of the old governor tore up a gear, valve, or something else. Inspect everything! {I was lucky and only the governor was destroyed}

One word of note. Be sure to clean out all of the debris from the blown governor. Be sure to remove the spark plugs and carefully rotate the drive shaft while looking for nooks-and-crannies where debris can hide. I tried to use a magnet to help, but it didn't help much, even though the block is aluminum.

Good luck.

I already had the engine off cuz I was doing a tractor swap so I simply separated the crankcase which was very easy kept things clean and carefully reassembled worked great

dissembled ordered repair parts, piston ,upper case, rod, camshaft, seal kit, and motor maintenance CD
The camshaft first provided did not have the compression release device on it and the cam lobe position was all wrong for the model engine I had. .
Parts Select provided me with the proper cam Shaft. Removed engine from mower (Scag Freedom Z) 15 minutes, drained oil, flipped upside down removed bottom case, removed wrong cam shaft, reinstall new valve lifters, camshaft with decompression release on it matching dots on crankshaft. Used paint brush to coat all parts heavily with motor oil.
Do not put sealant on case gasket,(it might change crankshaft end play), retorqued bolt in alternating pattern, placed nylon pipe tape on drain plug threads, and reinstalled engine on mower. It started instantly and ran extremely smooth with no oil burn or vibration.

I am very happy with the support and quick mshipping Parts Select provided..

pinged valve guide reinstalled head with new gasket inserted rods adjusted valve 15 min. later mowing lawn first time doin such repair note used magnet to pull old rod inside engine to drain left in rotated engine maling sure no parts broken started up and away i went c how long it lasts mower had over6500 hrs.. on it

Just described it.

Still not able to complete repair, unfortunately the box part was shipped in had a gaping hole in the bottom and some parts are missing. Trying to salvage from old mower deck.

Disassemble dryer. Replaced element assembly. Re assembled dryer. Unit runs and heats.

Shimmed the wheels out on axle.. No more slop.