AZF33X20DW03 Maytag Freezer - Instructions

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

took the old thermistor out and put the new one in.

Removed the rear cardboard cover and cleaned the area around the compressor and as much of the condensor and fan area as possible. Removed the two base section securing bolts. Jacked the rear of the cabinet up enough to seperate the base from the cabinet. Removed the roller pins and removed and replaced both rollers. Lowered the cabinet back into place, replaced the base bolts and the cardboard cover. The rollers that were sent were of much better quality than the original plastic type and should last the life of the refrigerator. Be careful when moving the fridge as the original rollers may cut into or scratch the flooring.

Unplug the fridge then wheel the refrigerator out to where you can get to the back - you will probably have to disconnect the ice maker water hose. Using the nut driver remove all the screws from the lower panel on the fridge. You will not have to remove the water hose connection just move the panel around a little. Look on the left side (facing the back of the fridge) you will see the capacitor held onto the compressor with a spring clip. Just pull the clip toward you and that will free the capacitor. Pull up on the capacitor and that will unplug it from the compressor. Be careful not to touch the two poles on the old capacitor. Capacitors store electricity and it could give you a jolt. I used electrical tape to insulate the poles and then threw it away. Plug in the new capacitor- re-hook the clip, reinstall the back panel, plug it in and verify that the fridge is working. Hook your water hose back up and move it back into place and you are done.

Super simple job. Unplug freezer. Have a hair dryer handy to defrost while you have unit open. Remove food from the bottom two shelves and floor of freezer. Remove mid plastic cover removing three screws. (All screws are same so mixing them is no big deal.) Use drill-driver or screw driver to spin out six screws on lower back plate. Remove plate. Thermistor is on left side of the cooling tubing. Use hair dryer to melt ice if necessary. Un-clip thermistor power connection, and unsnap it from tubing. snap new thermistor on cooling tube and hook up wiring. Ensure plug fits together correctly and snugly. If heavy icing exists, use hair dryer to melt ice on coils and through fan. Ensure water drains out of drain pan under coils. Wipe up as much ice melt as possible to prvent re-frosting upon start-up. Replace lower panel and six screws. Replace mid-panel cover and three screws and replace shelves. Done! Plug freezer back in and expect 30 second delay before unit will start up.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

1st; Remove all shelving
2nd; Phillips screws,= remove bottom cover, and bottom vent
3rd; Sensor is straight up- plug & play (see pic)!
DO NOT MAN-HANDLE.!
4th; Re-install vent & cover 'SLOWLY'.!
Please buy a "Freezer" thermometer. Good freezers work
around (+5* to -10*) even with food.

Removed all food! I used storage boxes insulates with blankets and a bit of dry ice in the boxes to keep the food cold.

Removed bottom bin and shelf

Removed bottom cover and fan shroud, this exposes evaporator coil and the thermostat. I had to defrost the evaporator and thermostat, they were completely encased in ice.

Thermostat is clipped to the evaporator coil, simply pry it off and removed it from the wire harness. Easy! Thermostat has a connector!
Installed new thermostat in the same location as the old one. Connected it to the wire harness and replace the bottom cover.
Turned it on and it seems to be working fine, now three weeks after repair.

Took the new kick plate out of the box. Snapped it into position. I have had a repairman for this refrigerator before. I would rather repair an appliance than buy a new one. I'm very proud that I thought to get a replacement part myself instead of calling my friendly repairman again. Saved a few dollars.

remove inside cover. meit ice collected, remove old part and install new part. about 1 hr.

Bought a new psrt

Followed online instructions. UnPlug and Plug in new part